GETTING THERE

Avianca offers direct flights from Miami; Spirit offers direct service from Fort Lauderdale. Fares start around $425 per person including taxes; the flight takes less than three hours from Miami.

TRAVEL ADVISORY

The U.S. Department of State continues to warn U.S. citizens about the dangers of travel to Colombia. It's advisory points out that while security has improved significantly, violence continues to affect some rural areas and some cities. www.travel.state.gov.

WHEN TO GO

The equatorial climate means hot and humid days but surprisingly comfortable nights. Prime time is late fall through early spring; the summer rainy season may not be your first choice.

WHERE TO STAY

It's the historic district you've come to see, and though the beach district with its many modern hotels is a short cab-ride away, you'll be missing out if you don't stay in the old city. Word to the wise: Ask about sound-proofed windows, especially if you're staying near the Parque de la Marina.

You'll find backpacker and some less expensive, trendy lodgings in the area called Getsemani. It's a bit transitional still, but comfortably safe during the day. At night, stick to the area's main streets.

In all cases, ask whether taxes are extra and whether breakfast is included.

• Sofitel Santa Clara: Located in a 17th century convent, this sophisticated 121-room resort-style hotel mixes historic ambiance with modern amenities. Features include lush courtyards, a pool looking out to the sea, spa, fine dining and a gracious service in a relatively quiet corner of town. (Author Gabriel Garcia Marquez has a home next door.) The hotel's hip El Coro lounge is worth a visit and makes one of the best coco-limeades around; ask for a floater of the local rum. www.sofitel.com; (011-57) 5-6504700. Rates from $270; check website for early booking discounts and other offers.

• Hotel Charleston Santa Teresa: Also fashioned from a 17th century convent, the 90-room Santa Teresa features some rooms designed by Linda Botero, granddaughter of the famed artist. Facilities include a fitness center, spa, restaurant and rooftop pool with terrific views of the San Claver dome -- worth a visit whether you stay here or not. 011-(57) 3257930. Rates from $372; ask for a room away from the weekend music atop the city wall.

• Casa Pestagua: Built in the 17th century as the home of a nobleman, this 11-room boutique hotel is widely considered Cartagena's top urban retreat, with a serene pool, wine cave for private dinners and rooms featuring beamed and frescoed ceilings. Rates from $250. www.casapestagua.net; (011-57) 5-6649510.

• Casa Arzobispado: Another of the city's luxury boutique hotels in a former home, with 10 rooms surrounding the pool. 888-790-5264; www.hotelcasadelarzobispado.com. Rates from about $300.

• Delirio Hotel: This stylish 17-room contemporary hotel remains quiet despite its location in the heart of the action. www.deliriohotel.com; (011-57) 5-660-2404. Rates from $125.

• Casa Lola: This new, ultrahip hotel in the Getsemani district features snug rooms that are big on design. www.casalola.com.co. Rates from $125.

• Casa la Fe: A simple but comfortable and friendly hotel on a quiet plaza, not far from the Sofitel. www.casalafe.com; 251-589-6802. Rates from about $125.