• Getting there: American Airlines flies nonstop from Miami to Montego Bay; Air Jamaica and Spirit fly nonstop from Fort Lauderdale, a trip of 1 ½ hours or so. Other airlines fly from either airport to Jamaica with a change of planes in four hours or longer. Roundtrip airfare starts at $238 from Miami, $257 from Fort Lauderdale. STAY

• Information: Jamaica Tourist Board, 305-665 0557 or 800-233-4582; www.visitjamaica.com.

WHERE TO STAY

• Negril Yoga Center: Amid all-inclusive resorts and reggae oriented hostels, the Negril Yoga Center offers a restful and family oriented vibe, with bungalows starting at $35 per night; $50 for the ''octa-cone'' Chickee Room (with kitchenette). Common-area kitchen for visitors staying in rooms without a kitchen. Delicious meals, with plenty of vegan and vegetarian dishes, available; daily Iyengar-style drop-in yoga classes, as well as spa and yoga packages. 876-957-4397; www.negrilyoga.com.

• Coral Seas Beach Resort: Friendly seaside patio restaurant with casual family style dining at lunch and terrific seafood in the evening. Access to snorkeling, rental kayaks and jet skis. Beachside rooms from $60. 876-957-4388; www.coralseasnegril.com.

• Xtabi Resort: Built in several layers along the dramatic cliffs at Negril's West End, including a few basement sea caves where waves splash into candle-lit alcoves. Summer rates $49-$120. Xtabi welcomes non-overnight guests to share the swimming pads, and also has snorkeling gear and a jumping platform for daring swimmers. 876-957-0121; www.xtabi-negril.com.

WHERE TO EAT

We saved money by buying groceries and cooking them in our yoga center cabin, and by snacking frequently on fresh fruit sold by strolling vendors. Our favorite dinner was jerked chicken prepared in roadside trailers.

• Sonia's is a sand-floor place serving breafast, lunch and dinner and a full lineup of traditional patties, pastry shells stuffed with everything from ackee fruit to pumpkins, chicken and lobster. At Secrets across the road from Roots Bamboo; www.jabta.com/sonia/.

• The 3 Dives Jerk Center near Xtabi Resort on the West End is a hotbed for traditional Jamaican dry-rubbed jerk BBQ. The informal cliff-top eatery hosts the Jamaica-wide jerk festival each November. 876-344-6850; no website, but check out this video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=HE0j5fUCmlo.

WHAT TO DO

• The Coral Seas Beach Resort and a number of other beachfront resorts have outdoor rec areas with ping pong tables. During our first trip to Negril, my son caught the ping pong bug; on our second trip, we brought our own paddles and extra balls.

• The Negril Scuba Center is a Jamaican-owned family business, and it is the central spot for all things underwater, including SCUBA lessons for kids as young as 11. Six-dive packages available for $125. www.negriljamaica.com/negrilscubacentre.html.

• Dylan and I enjoyed a day away from the beach hiking along -- and in -- the Mayfield River, through rainforest and bamboo groves, ending up with a swim at a series of crystal-clear waterfalls and pools. Most Negril taxi drivers and tourist mini-buses can set up a day trip and connect you with a required guide for the gentle three-mile walk. Expect to pay about $50 for the half-day trek. www.riverwalkatmayfield.com/.

• The Great Morass and Royal Palm Reserve are within cycling distance of Negril, with a network of trails and boardwalks through a wetlands thriving with birds and other wildlife. Visit the observation tower in the palm reserve at dawn or dusk to watch animals feeding in the swamp.

• The Kool Runnings water park in the heart of Negril ($28 adults, $19 kids) features 10 slides. www.koolrunnings.com.

• Our favorite day trip was to mellow Half Moon Beach, about 10 miles -- and a $5 taxi ride -- northeast of Negril along the main coast road. The sheltered cove is part of the Negril Marine Park, with healthy coral reefs and no motorized vehicles.