Cairo is third world and first world, Islamic world and pharaonic world, a teeming city that jars all the senses, all at once. Its history can be seen in the people themselves: the modern-day ful seller peddling his stewed beans from a decorated cart, the felucca captain guiding his sailboat through the murky Nile, the young man riding a bicycle through traffic with a ladder-sized tray of bread balanced on his head. Come prepared: a scarf for women to enter mosques; packets of tissues for bathroom stops; small bills for tips; and if you like to drink, a bottle or two of wine from the duty-free airport shop.
WHERE TO STAY
If you want to be near the center of town, you can stay at the new Four Seasons Hotel at Nile Plaza (011-202) 2791-7000; www.fourseasons.com/caironp. Good service, everything just so. Rooms (with a view of the Nile) from $390.
At the Cairo Marriott in Zamalek (011-202) 2728-3000; www.marriott.com), built around a 19th century palace, the service can be maddening, but rooms were recently renovated. The beautiful garden has a pool and outdoor eating area. There is a casino, too. Rooms from $280.
Downtown, The Windsor (011- 202) 2591-5810; www.windsorcairo.com), within walking distance of the museum, is a funky, historic, low-cost alternative with a great bar. Rooms about $38-$57.
WHERE TO EAT
Cairo is not the gourmet capital of the Middle East, but food here is good. Stick to Egyptian food like ful and tamaya -- deep-fried discs of fava bean paste that are favorite breakfast foods in Egypt. Make sure you are hungry when you go to El Karbegi (11 Sayeda Zeinab Square; 011-202-2391-4318). For just a few pounds, enjoy sandwiches stuffed with the freshest tamaya and ful in Cairo.
Get a table on the balcony over the Nile at El Kebabgy, the recently reopened restaurant at the Sofitel hotel (3 El Thawra Council St., Zamalek; 011-202-2737-3737). Order the mixed grill, which includes lamb and chicken.
Since we are sticking with Egyptian cuisine, try koshary, a blend of macaroni, spaghetti, fried onions, lentils and, if you like, spicy red sauce. At Abou Tarek, in the Maarouf section (www.aboutarek.com), there are two dishes, big and small.
WHAT TO DO
The Cairo Jazz Club (197 26th July St., Agouza; 011-202-3345- 9939; www.cairojazzclub.com) has two bars, one near the dance floor, one for the more laid-back area near the entrance, which plays host to a mix of Westerners and upper-class Egyptians.
-- MICHAEL SLACKMAN
Travel Times
