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Mountains majesty: Celebrating the Smokies

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Layered folds of dusky purple mountain peaks stretch to the horizon, pockets of blue haze softly settling between the ridges. Their outline was bolder and fiercer eons ago when these mountains were younger. But the sharp, angry rock has weathered over the past several hundred million years, yielding the more genial, gently rounded profile it has today.

The vista is signature Smoky Mountains. It's a view familiar to most of the nine million people who come here each year to view abundant wildlife, enjoy spring wildflower displays and revel in majestic fall colors.

Straddling the Tennessee-North Carolina state line, the Smokies are within a day's drive of one-third of the U.S. population, making this the most visited national park in the country.

Next year, the laid-back mood around these parts will turn decidedly celebratory as the park marks its 75th anniversary (party hats optional but dress is definitely casual). Special programs and events now being planned throughout 2009 will highlight the park's flora and fauna as well as both pioneer and American Indian cultural heritage that makes the Smokies unique among national parks.

Three major events are at the core of the celebration.

First, the Knoxville Symphony Orchestra will give an evening outdoor concert at Cades Cove, closest to the Townsend, Tenn., park entrance, on Saturday, June 13. Although the concert will be free, reservations are required.

On Sunday, June 14, the park headquarters, near the Gatlinburg, Tenn., entrance, will host an all-day open house highlighting park development, management activities, architecture and the contribution of the Civilian Conservation Corps.

On the day of the actual anniversary, Monday, June 15, the big event is a groundbreaking ceremony for a new visitor center and cultural history museum at Oconaluftee, the park's North Carolina entrance.

A fourth major event is planned for Wednesday, Sept. 2, the anniversary of the park's dedication in 1940 by Franklin D. Roosevelt, six years after the park was established. On this date in 2009, a rededication will be enacted at the Rockefeller Memorial at Newfound Gap, and the president of the United States will be invited.

Even when there's not a party going on, though, there's plenty to do and see in the Smokies.

Within its half-million-plus acres, the park offers 800 miles of nature walks and hiking trails, hundreds of miles of horse trails along with four commercial stables, 700 miles of fishable streams, 11 developed picnic areas, 10 campgrounds and nearly 400 miles of roadway, much of it specifically designed for auto touring.

Three concentrations of historic buildings comprise almost 80 homes, churches, barns, schoolhouses and even a few gristmills dating from the late 1800s. Its three visitor centers (two in Tennessee and one in North Carolina) proffer exhibits, films, ranger programs and well-stocked gift shops.

Here's a look at some of the park's best bets for touring.

CADES COVE

One of the best places to see both wildlife and a piece of the park's pioneer history is Cades Cove. Here an 11-mile, one-way loop road winds through open fields and forestland where 685 people in 132 separate households lived in 1850.

Pioneer life was hard here, and many families eventually moved on. By 1860, the population of Cades Cove had dwindled to only 275.

When the national park was established in 1934, most residents sold their lots and moved elsewhere, although some tenacious families were permitted to lease their land back and live out the rest of their lives in their homes. The last resident was Kermit Caughron, a fifth-generation descendant of original settlers, who farmed here until his death in 1999.

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