The Crown Princess wasn't my first choice of ships, based purely on its large size (almost 3,100 passengers.) That said, the experience exceeded expectations of nearly everyone in our group. In October, the ship comes to Port Everglades for fall/winter Caribbean cruises. Our review:

Decor: Warm woods and decor dominated by royal blue and beige provided a restful, handsome ambience. Artwork was less impressive than on some other ships.

Service: Superb. Sam, our chief waiter, was charming, attentive and quickly figured out individual preferences. Our room steward was equally outstanding.

Cuisine: Food in the main dining room was so excellent that we never made it to the ship's two reservations-only, extra-fee gourmet eateries. However, the casual buffet where we ate most breakfasts and lunches featured food that was predictable and repetitive, and we often had to wait for a table. ''Free'' drinks were limited to water, tea and coffee; some other ships include lemonade.

Cabins: Thanks to the open closet facing the bathroom, the main cabin at first seemed a bit close. But after a few hours we realized how well the arrangement worked, allowing a neat living space separated from the dressing area. Shortcoming: Not enough drawers.

Public spaces: Most hit high marks. Best were the wine-and-seafood bar, coffee lounge, pizza stand, outdoor Asian ''serenity'' pool area (sans noise and children) and the smart main pools, with a ''louder'' pool for music and activities and a second pool with large screen for movies. There were, however, few quiet spaces where we could sit and read, making a cabin balcony all-the-more useful.

Onboard activities: The port lecturer, John Lawrence, was superb, and we rarely missed his talks. We'd come to see the ports and spent minimal time aboard. Music was ho-hum; '80s night in the disco was led by an English DJ who clearly spent the decade on another planet. Shows were predictable and less-than-memorable, with the exception of the comedian, who drew raves. The champagne pour in the lobby late one night looked like a raucous movie dance scene; everyone loved it.

Crowd management: Terrific. Ship staff directed tours off one gang plank and individuals off another, which meant we stood in line only briefly -- and then only once. (Hint: At dinner, you can avoid standing in line by arriving a few minutes after the dining room opens.)

Getting to town: In some ports access from the port to downtown was cheap and efficient, but in others it was difficult to figure out. We often popped four in a taxi as the quickest way to go. Some ship-arranged transport was unairconditioned (we'd been warned in advance.)

Needs a fix: Internet access was so ungainly that veteran cruisers called it the slowest at sea, ever -- and that's saying something. Unlike many other ships, the Crown Princess doesn't allow you to check your room bill on the TV -- meaning to see your bill before the final hour, you must stand in line for 45 minutes. Not a good way to close an otherwise upbeat experience.

-- JANE WOOLDRIDGE

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