THE CARIBBEAN BY SUBMARINE
Atlantis Submarines operates submarine tours in the Caribbean (Aruba, Barbados, Cozumel, Curacao, Grand Cayman, St. John, St. Martin, St. Thomas), Hawaii (Kona, Maui, Oahu) and Guam.Prices vary by destination. In Barbados, adults, $89.10; teens, $71.55; children ages 4-12, $44.55.Information: 866-546-7820 or 954-229-3001; www.atlantisadventures.com.
In this underwater adventure, you're neither a snorkeler nor a diver. You're a passenger in an authentic submarine.
Since 1986, when Atlantis Submarines International launched the world's first public-passenger submarine off the coast of Grand Cayman Island, more than 11 million customers have taken the plunge. The voyages are now offered in 28-, 48- and 64- passenger subs at 12 island destinations in the Caribbean, Hawaii and Guam.
I went under in Atlantis III, a 48-passenger sub operating off the coast of Barbados. The journey began at the departure dock in Bridgetown, the capital. We boarded the Ocean Quest transfer boat for the 10-minute trip to the dive site at Freshwater Bay Reef, a mile off the coast of Paradise Beach on the west coast of the island.
The submarine was waiting there, bobbing on the choppy surface like a prop in an action film. Images from The Hunt for Red October flashed before my eyes. But unlike the nuclear bomb-toting sub from the movie, Atlantis III is all about fun.
GOING DOWN?
After the Ocean Quest nuzzled up to the submarine, passengers walked one-by-one down the gangplank. We stepped through a hatch, climbed down a ladder and sat back-to-back along a molded plastic bench in the passenger cabin.
Large viewing ports provided front-row seats to a world most of us see only on the Discovery Channel. Colored placards, with the names and images of the many sea creatures we would see along the way, were provided as educational aides.
The submarine itself is a technical marvel. Battery-powered and nonpolluting, it makes a minimal impact on the environment. Because the passenger cabin is air-conditioned and pressure-controlled, the ride is surprisingly comfortable.
As the craft submerged, I felt as if we were flying rather than diving. Looking through the viewing port, the ocean seemed more like outer space. Patches of sunlight shimmered in the water like stars.
The pilot, positioned behind a large window at the front of the craft, navigated the craft through aquamarine water. The low hum of the engine was interrupted by a series of ''ooohs'' and ''ahhhs'' as kids and adults pointed through the viewing ports.
Our pilot gave a running commentary throughout the 50-minute trip. Speaking in a soft Barbadian accent through the public address system, he pointed out the Lord Willoughby -- a water-carrying barge -- that had been sunk as an artificial reef nearly 40 years earlier.
During the ''Living Classroom'' segment of the tour, kids learned that the reef is a living ecosystem made up of millions of animals. The two-mile reef area is built with hard and soft corals upon which thousands of fish feed.
We saw trumpetfish wriggling among the sea fans. Sergeant majors poked around the branches of staghorn coral. There were tinfoil barbs, barracuda and French angelfish that liked to swim in pairs.
Greenback turtles, whose numbers are steadily increasing, have been known to peer at passengers through the viewing ports. I didn't see turtles during my trip. But I did see the large school of horse-eyed jacks that has visited each Barbados dive for more than 20 years.
GOING DEEP
En route to a maximum depth of 150 feet, twice as deep as a recreational diver might go, I fought off a mild panic attack. Perhaps it was a petty dose of claustrophobia. Or maybe I've seen too many movies in which naval submarines become stranded at the bottom of the ocean.
I peered through the viewing port into the semidarkness, reminding myself that Atlantis submarines have a built-in safety feature. Unlike naval submarines, which normally operate at neutral buoyancy, Atlantis subs maintain constant positive buoyancy. In the event of a power failure, the sub will automatically rise to the surface.
As Atlantis III rose to the surface, safe and sound like always, I wondered if I should stick to Disney films.
Elliott Hester is the author of Plane Insanity and Adventures of a Continental Drifter. Contact him at elliotthester@gmail.com or visit www.elliotthester.com.
