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UTAH

Sundance: A star that didn't go Hollywood

GOING TO SUNDANCE RESORT

Getting there: It's an hour's drive from Salt Lake City, about 30 miles from Park City.

Skiing: Much smaller than the glitzy Park City resorts, Sundance has 41 trails spread over 500 acres accessible from three slow-moving lifts. Most challenging skiing can be found in the steep bowls and narrow chutes at the far side of the resort. Lift tickets are $47 for adults, $25 for ages 6-12. The ski season is scheduled to open on Dec. 11. Night skiing will debut this season.

Lodging: Rustic mountain cabins range from $329 a night for standard rooms to $270 for 900-square-foot suites with loft.

Dining: The Foundry Grills is Robert Redford's favorite for lunch. The Tree Room offers fine dining in a room built around a tree. Entrees $13-$39.

Aprés ski: Unwind at the Owl Bar, where your boots have the resonance of a real cowboy saloon and the bar itself belonged to the real Butch Cassidy. Entrees $12-$27.

What's so special: Sundance is as much about promoting the arts and preserving the environment as it is about skiing. Situated next to 12,000-foot Mount Timpanogos, the scenery is spectacular.

Film festival: The resort is a hub of activity during the Sundance Film Festival (Jan. 21-31), but it's actually a good time to ski. Lots of celebs around, not many skiers.

More info: SundanceResort.com

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Sun Sentinel

Standing on the lip of Bishop's Bowl at the top of Sundance Resort, watching the pair ascending slowly on the Arrowhead Lift, I couldn't resist turning to my skiing sidekick, Wally, and delivering the line, ``Who are those guys?''

Certainly not Butch and Sundance. Chuck and Jack were a couple of retirees on a day trip from Salt Lake City. They are more typical of the characters found on the slopes of Sundance than the movie stars one might hope to encounter.

At $47, the lift ticket costs just over half of those at the big, glitzy ski resorts around nearby Park City, Utah. That explained the abundance of young snowboarders and fixed-income bargain hunters on a sunny February morning.

It is the paradox and charm of Robert Redford's slice of paradise at the base of Mount Timpanogos. Though world-renowned because of its owner, film festival and other cultural events, Sundance never went Hollywood. Though its rustically elegant lodging is pricey (standard rooms and suites range from $399 to $599 a night), it has never priced regular folks like Chuck and Jack off the mountain.

Chuck latched onto us in the parking lot and seemed intent on being our tour guide. On the long ride to the summit, he pointed out various attractions, such as a cabin that had been knocked off its foundation by an avalanche, was rebuilt with a concrete V-shape barrier to protect it, yet got carried away by another avalanche.

Sundance is the sort of place where time stands still, and you feel it on the creeping quad lift that delivers you to the base of the back mountain after making two stops, and the equally tedious triple that follows to reach the best skiing. You have time to sketch the stunning scenery along the way or listen to Chuck's tales, which often started promising, tended to lose direction, but occasionally produced a surprising punch line.

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Such as when I asked if he'd ever encountered Redford on the slopes.

``Never saw Redford,'' he said. ``My sister-in-law is a big Redford fan. We were coming up here for dinner one time and I said, `I hope we don't see him.' She said, `Why not?' I said, `I'd hate to see you have an instant orgasm.' ''

By the time we finally got our skis facing downhill, we were convinced we were in good hands. Chuck had detailed his experiences in the ski patrol. ``I'll lead off,'' he said, and proceeded to take the most comical slow-motion tumble down the first slope.

It's no wonder Chuck never ran into Redford. Mr. Downhill Racer is said to frequent the resort's steepest runs, accessible from Bishop's Bowl. One of them, Shauna's Secret, is named for his daughter.

Run the sheer face of Shauna's through a pine glade, then take a hard right down Pipeline, a long, narrow canyon that leaves you breathless and turns your legs to jelly before it spits you out in the most quiet and peaceful corner of Sundance. It seems an ideal outlet for Butch and Sundance to make a dramatic escape from Joe Lefors' posse.

Sundance does feel more like an outlaw's ruggedly beautiful hide-out than a ski resort. Or like the perfect hideaway from the mobs at the major resorts. Though small, with 500 skiable acres, it is easy to lose oneself, and to avoid other skiers.

Surprising when you consider there are only three lifts.

``You may wonder how it will satisfy you. But the vastness of the terrain is tremendous, everything from intermediate to World Cup-expert. It may only be 500 acres, but it's 500 acres of my favorite terrain,'' says Jerry Warren, director of skiing and mountain operations.

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