SHREVEPORT, LOUISIANA
There's a great deal outside the casinos
Most visitors to Northwest Louisiana place a bet or two, but it would be a shame to miss out on the area's other attractions.

GOING TO SHREVEPORT
Getting there: There are no nonstop flights from South Florida to Shreveport. Several airlines fly there from Miami or Fort Lauderdale, with a change of planes and travel times starting at a little more than four hours. Roundrip airfare starts at $391 from Miami, $527 from Fort Lauderdale. Information: Shreveport-Bossier Convention & Tourist Bureau, 888-458-4748; www.shreveport-bossier.org.WHERE TO STAY Interstate 20 is lined with chain motels priced to suit all budgets. The Hilton Shreveport is conveniently located downtown, within walking distance of many attractions. Free shuttles transport guests to the casinos. This new 313-room hotel has a heated pool, fitness center and all the usual Hilton amenities. 104 Market St.; 318-698-0900; www.shreveport.hilton.com; rooms from $118. Casino resorts have low weekday rates that can quadruple on the weekends. For example, Horseshoe Casino & Hotel (800-427-7247; www.horseshoe.com; 606 rooms) offers rooms for $80 weekdays in October, $195 Fridays and $380 Saturdays. Horseshoe and DiamondJacks Casino & Resort (866-552-9629; www.diamondjacks.com/bossiercity.aspx; 550 rooms; rooms from $79 weekdays) are all-suite lodgings. Sam's Town Hotel & Casino (877-429-0711; www.samstownshreveport.com/boydgaming) offers 514 rooms in a 23-story tower; rates from $66. Eldorado Resort Casino (877-613-0711; www.eldoradoshreveport.com) has 403 high-end rooms; rates from $74 weekdays, $145 weekends; Boomtown Casino & Hotel (318-746-0711; www.boomtownbossier.com) 188 rooms, from $69 weekdays.WHERE TO EAT I enjoyed a superb dinner at Wine Country Bistro & Bottle Shop on Line Avenue, a five-mile hub of Shreveport dining and shopping. Try chef Michael Brady's Low Country shrimp and grits, pan-seared Gulf flounder or Colorado lamb chops. Menus change seasonally, but you can't go wrong here from appetizers to desserts. More than 25 wines are served by the glass. 318-219-3330; www.winecountrynet.com; entrees $14-$26. Fertitta's Delicatessen is Louisiana's only family-owned restaurant on the National Register of Historic Places. A tradition since 1927, its main claims to fame are ``Papa Fertitta's Famous Olive Mix'' and the ``Muffy,'' a variation on the muffuletta. The millionth Muffy was devoured last year. 1124 Fairfield Ave.; 318-424-5508; www.papafertitta.com; sandwiches $3.50-$12. I adored the Abby Singer Bistro in Shreveport's Robinson Film Center. We enjoyed a delectable roasted-tomato gazpacho, a lobster risotto salad and a spicy Thai burger (sweet chile sauce, cilantro, ginger, garlic and sriracha). 318-424-9090; www.robinsonfilmcenter.org; entrees $10-$18. -- HARRY SHATTUCKBY HARRY SHATTUCK
Houston Chronicle
SHREVEPORT, La. -- It's billed as ``Louisiana's other side.'' And not just geographically.
Start with a warm Deep South hospitality. Add rippling lakes and miles of green spaces typical of East Texas. Mix in Vegas sizzle and Hollywood flair. Roses and robots. Muffulettas -- check that, they're called muffys here.
An 80-year-old auditorium where Elvis launched his career. An opera, ballet and symphony. A nationally acclaimed science museum.
A Chocolate Crocodile. A Stray Cat. A professional hockey team known as the Mudbugs.
That other side is beginning to intrigue, right?
I've breezed through Shreveport and Bossier City -- sister cities separated by the Red River -- dozens of times while driving Interstate 20 to and from my native Mississippi. But I never imagined these northwest Louisiana communities, 20 miles from the Texas line, as a vacation destination other than for folks who relish the region's five casinos.
A more extended visit last year set me straight.
Shreveport-Bossier City -- the towns are routinely linked as singular -- may not possess the bawdy edge and nightlife of New Orleans or the Cajun zest of Lafayette, but there is no pretending here. This is, after all, the ``other side.''
ROLL OF THE DICE
This is clearly the gaming capital of Louisiana -- a miniature Las Vegas with casino resorts on both sides of the river (Sam's Town and Eldorado in Shreveport; Horseshoe, Boomtown and DiamondJacks in Bossier City). Harrah's Louisiana Downs, a short drive to the east and also in Bossier City, doubles as a horse track and a casino.
None will be mistaken for Vegas' theme casinos, but Horseshoe Casino & Hotel includes 606 suites, the Riverdome Theater and the $3.3 million, 3,300-square-foot CMT Crossroads, a combination bar, dance parlor and venue for country artists. Eldorado's three-story pavilion includes a showroom where blues jams are a Thursday-night tradition. The Legends Theater at DiamondJacks seats 1,600 for concerts.
According to a survey conducted by the local tourist bureau, 59 percent of Shreveport-Bossier City visitors spend time at a casino. Only the Louisiana Boardwalk (71 percent) is a bigger draw.
ON THE BOARDWALK
Opened in 2005, Bossier City's Louisiana Boardwalk (www.louisianaboardwalk.com) is northwest Louisiana's premier shopping, dining and entertainment complex. It boasts more than 60 retail outlets, 15 restaurants, a movie complex, music and comedy nightclubs, an arcade, even a broadcast center.
A 2,500-square-foot promenade stretches beside the river, and that's only one aspect of a development so vast that free trolleys serve as antidotes to blistered feet.
Scattered among familiar shops are such gems as the Old Farmers Almanac General Store -- I could spend an hour here -- and Hands of Peace Massage Therapy, which offers treatments for adults and kids. A Bass Pro Shop is flanked by Uncle Buck's Alligator Bayou. Outlet centers are operated by Nike, Reebok, Eddie Bauer, Banana Republic and Lane Bryant.
My favorite: the Chocolate Crocodile candy shop where the daring opt for a Monster Croc, a Granny Smith apple drenched with caramel and white and milk chocolate, coated with pecans. Or perhaps you'd prefer Worms & Dirt, an apple dipped in white chocolate and rolled in Oreo crumbs.
SPACE STATIONS
The most pleasant surprise during my Shreveport-Bossier City visit was Sci-Port: Louisiana's Science Center (www.sciport.org), honored last fall by Parents magazine as one of the nation's 10 best science museums. The emphasis here is on interactive experiences, none more riveting than Sci-Port's Space Dome Planetarium, which utilizes a state-of-the-art, 16 million-pixel laser projection system.
Visitors can ``control'' the International Space Station, ``dock'' a space shuttle and watch films in Louisiana's only IMAX theater. Star parties are conducted on Sci-Port's roof. Sci-Port is along the riverfront in downtown Shreveport. It's a blast.
WEALTH OF CULTURES
More than 25 cultures have been identified as influencing northwest Louisiana, and the Multicultural Center of the South (www.mccsouth.org) -- a beautifully arranged two-story nonprofit facility on Texas Street in downtown Shreveport -- presents exhibitions and artifacts that focus on these cultures and the nations whence they derived.
Separate areas are dedicated to each culture, from Pakistani, Filipino and Vietnamese to Greek, Scottish and Slavic. African-American, Hispanic/Latino, Native American and Jewish cultures are here, along with Cajun and Creole.
The center is one of 26 institutions on Louisiana's African-American Heritage Trail.
It's the best $3 investment you'll make in Shreveport. Unless, that is, you get lucky at the slots.
A BED OF ROSES
Encompassing more than 40 acres, the American Rose Center (www.ars.org) -- on the western outskirts of Shreveport off Interstate 20 -- is touted as the nation's largest park dedicated entirely to roses.
Visitors can meander down winding paths and beside babbling brooks, enjoying a sensory feast of 20,000 roses planted in 65 gardens.
Open April 1-Oct. 31, the center serves as headquarters for the American Rose Society.
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