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BOSTON

Taking a walk in the footsteps of history

 

Fountains adorn the Rose Kennedy Greenway.
Fountains adorn the Rose Kennedy Greenway.
ELISE AMENDOLA / AP

Going to Boston

Getting there: American Airlines flies nonstop from Miami to Boston, with roundtrip airfare starting around $254 (you can save about $50 if you're willing to change planes). Spirit and JetBlue fly nonstop from Fort Lauderdale, with roundtrip airfare starting around $210. Flight time is just over three hours.

Information: www.BostonUSA.com, www.walktothesea.com, www.bostonharborwalk.com or www.freedomtrail.org.

WHERE TO STAY

Harbor Hotel, 70 Rowe's Wharf; 617-439-7000; www.bhh.com. True luxury on historic Rowe's Wharf. Doubles from about $290.

Liberty Hotel, 215 Charles St.; 866-507-5245; www.libertyhotel.com. The lobby, bar, restaurants and several rooms are in what was once Boston's Charles Street Jail; other rooms are in a newly-constructed building. Close to Beacon Hill and the Charles River. Doubles from about $295.

Langham Hotel, 250 Franklin St.; 617-451-1900; www.langhamhotels.com. Close to the waterfront and Freedom Trail. Doubles from about $250.

Midtown Hotel, 220 Huntington Ave.; 617-262-1000; www.midtownhotel.com. Basic, clean and comfortable; just steps from the ``T.'' Doubles from about $89.

WHERE TO EAT

Audubon Circle, 838 Beacon St.; 617-421-1910;

www.auduboncircle.us. Comfort food in a warm neighborhood restaurant/bar setting. Entrées from about $13.

Durgin Park, 340 Faneuil Hall Marketplace; 617-227-2038; www.durgin-park.com. For more than 100 years, Durgin Park has served up local specialties like Indian pudding, chowder and baked beans. Expect to share a table with other diners, carrying on a tradition that began when merchants and farmers doing business at Faneuil Hall gathered here for a hearty meal. Entrées from about $11.

Eastern Standard Kitchen & Drinks, 528 Commonwealth Ave.; 617-532-9100; www.easternstandardboston.com. Lively Back Bay restaurant and bar offers entrées as diverse as seared striped bass with eggplant and fennel confit. Entrées from about $20.

Aura, One Seaport Lane; 617-385-4300; www.aurarestaurant.com. Harbor location. Contemporary global and American cuisine. Entrées from about $24.

Travel Arts Syndicate

BOSTON -- If Boston is called America's Walking City, some wags claim that's because only intrepid motorists will brave downtown Boston's crooked streets and famously volatile and voluble drivers. In fact, it's the charming juxtapositions of old and new, land and water, urban vistas and open spaces that make Boston such an attractive city to wander through at any season.

Several well-marked routes help walkers find their way easily through the city. The newest of these, the Norman B. Leventhal Walk to the Sea, begins downtown at venerable Beacon Hill and ends at Long Wharf jutting into Boston Harbor.

Named for a prominent real estate developer who developed many contemporary Boston landmarks, the one-mile Walk to the Sea is punctuated with stops at eight popular sites. Along the route, illuminated stainless steel and glass panels display maps and information that illustrate Boston's history.

By the early 1800s, the south slope of Beacon Hill had become home to many of Boston's most prominent families. The preserved brownstone townhouses surrounding Louisburg Square bespeak the genteel lives of yesteryear's Boston Brahmins. The area remains one of the city's most prestigious addresses. Gaslights still illuminate brick sidewalks and ancient elms and pear trees shade cobblestone streets.

From Beacon Hill, walkers stroll on to King's Chapel, built in 1750 on the site of the original 1688 building. A great hue and cry went up from Boston's Puritans when King James III ordered construction of the wooden chapel, which became the first Anglican Church in America.

Despite its staid name, the next stop, Government Center, has its own tales to tell. Known to generations of Bostonians as Scollay Square, in the mid-20th century the area was one of the last bastions of vaudeville, including raucous performances at the infamous Old Howard Theater. Now office buildings, courthouses, Boston City Hall and federal buildings surround an airy, open plaza.

COMPACT CITY

Boston is such a compact city that walking from the ultra-modern Government Center to the historic Old State House takes only a few minutes. Here the contrast between old and new could not be more dramatic. The graceful building, built in 1713 and now surrounded by shops, banks and skyscrapers, was the hub of political machinations and debates in Colonial Boston. The British occupied the building during the Revolutionary War, to the dismay of the colonists. Small wonder that on July 18, 1776, most of the citizenry turned out to hear the first reading of the Declaration of Independence from the Old State House balcony, an event that is repeated each July 4.

From the Old State House, it's a straight route along State Street to the sea, first passing through Boston's Financial District, an area that once bustled with warehouses and merchants selling goods arriving at nearby Long Wharf. Today, it's home to the Boston Stock Exchange and the headquarters of several major corporations.

Also in the Financial District is the beautiful old Custom House, the sixth stop on the walk and now a Marriott property. Built in Greek Revival style between 1837 and 1847, the Custom House was the center of maritime business, including the collecting of tariffs from ships from around the world.

Just before Long Wharf, walkers pass through the new Rose Kennedy Greenway, named for the Boston-born matriarch of the famous Kennedy family. Prior visitors to Boston will remember this as the site of the old expressway; today, traffic is routed underground, freeing the space for 15 acres of public parks that link the North End -- Boston's iconic Italian district -- Chinatown, and the Wharf District.

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