My baseball fanatic friends and I always close the bar at the Rivertowne Brewing Hall of Fame Club after Pirates games at PNC Park in Pittsburgh. We linger for as long as they let us, enjoying the great view of the field and reduced postgame drinks prices. We’re usually the last ones out the door before they turn off the lights. It’s just one of many reasons why we love coming to PNC Park and hate leaving.
Talk to any traveling baseball fan or ballpark aficionado about PNC Park, and they’ll speak in reverent tones about the panoramic view of the Pittsburgh skyline beyond the outfield wall. In its 14-year existence, the visually stunning chiseled-limestone ballpark has become one of professional baseball’s most highly regarded cathedrals, sitting at the center of a historic sports mecca.
Whenever I visit Pittsburgh, I feel jealous that I’m not a native fan of the city’s sports teams. Some of the most dramatic and memorable moments in professional sports history have taken place in Pittsburgh: Bill Mazeroski’s walk-off home run in the seventh game of the 1960 World Series; Roberto Clemente’s outstanding performance in the 1971 series and his 3,000th and final hit the next year, just three months before he died in a plane crash while flying relief supplies to earthquake victims in Nicaragua. Clemente passed the torch as team leader to Willie “Pops” Stargell, who led the Pirates to their next World Series victory in 1979.
The football Steelers have Franco Harris’s improbable “Immaculate Reception,” when he caught a deflected pass and ran it into the end zone for a touchdown in the final seconds of the team’s 1972 playoff victory over the Oakland Raiders. NFL Films chose it as the greatest play of all time.
Pittsburgh’s iconic sports history is celebrated with statues, monuments, memorials and historical markers throughout the city, as well as some very entertaining and enlightening sports museums.
“I don’t think there’s another city in the United States that uses sport as much as Pittsburgh to tell its story to the world,” says Rob Ruck, a sports history professor at the University of Pittsburgh.
In his LinkedIn profile photo, Ruck is posing in front of a preserved portion of the outfield wall at Forbes Field that Mazeroski’s historic blast flew over. The wall segment stands outside the university’s Mervis Hall, which was built on the site of the Pirates’ home park from 1909 to 1970. Pirates fans gather here every Oct. 13 to listen to the radio re-broadcast of the game.
Home plate from Forbes Field is imbedded in the floor of the university’s Posvar Hall student union building. And the specific section of the wall that Mazeroski’s home run passed over was restored in 2009 and moved to the Riverwalk area outside PNC Park, near a statue of the slugger himself.
Surrounding PNC Park at four points are bronze statues of Clemente, Stargell, Mazeroski and Honus Wagner. Seven members of the Negro League’s Pittsburgh Crawfords and Homestead Grays are also honored with sculpted likenesses in the ballpark’s Legacy Square, inside the left-field gate entrance.
Beyond the outfield wall, the Roberto Clemente Bridge looms at the forefront of the horizon, running from left to left-center-field and providing a spectacular vista from the park.
It has been 42 years since Clemente’s death, but you’d be hard pressed to find another player in baseball history who left such a lasting impression on his team and its city. Clemente’s number 21 is still the most popular number on fans’ T-shirts and jerseys at PNC Park.
Outside the right-field wall, which rises to 21 feet, the Roberto Clemente Memorial Park contains a series of cascading waterfalls along the ballpark’s exterior walkway. A small piece of the University of Pittsburgh’s Schenley Drive has also been renamed in Clemente’s honor.
But perhaps the greatest memorial to his legacy is the Roberto Clemente Museum. Housed in the old Enginehouse No. 25 in the Lawrenceville neighborhood, about three miles from PNC Park, it’s the largest collection of Clemente photographs and memorabilia assembled in one place.
Most of the items on display belong to the museum’s proprietor, commercial photographer Duane Rieder, although some of the more significant objects are on loan from the Clemente family. These include a pair of Presidential Medals of Freedom presented posthumously by President Richard Nixon, as well as Clemente’s 1960 and 1971 World Series rings, his 1967 Gold Glove Award, his National Baseball Hall of Fame replica plaque and his 1961 Silver Slugger Award.
Tours of the museum are available by appointment only, and I made mine at the last minute before arriving in town for the Orioles games at PNC Park. The museum was hosting a private event on the same day, and the assistant director told me that I would have only 30 minutes to see everything. About an hour-and-a-half later, I was drinking wine with Rieder in the museum basement, which functions as a winery and cellar.
“I started making these wines when I found out that Roberto drank only homemade red wine made by the team’s trainer, Tony Bartirome,” Rieder told me.
It’s true: In photos of the Pirates celebrating in the clubhouse after the 1971 World Series victory, Clemente is holding a large goblet of red wine, while others are imbibing beer and champagne.
Less than two miles from the Clemente Museum is the Western Pennsylvania Sports Museum at the Heinz History Center, where a life-size figure of Harris making the Immaculate Reception greets you on the second floor. This introductory image explains all you need to know about the significance of the catch. Another lifelike figure, of Mazeroski hitting his famous home run, adds a three-dimensional element to the museum’s baseball exhibit, a 40-foot-tall, two-story room adorned with a mural of Forbes Field as it appeared on the day of the seventh game of the 1960 World Series.
“Mazeroski’s home run and the Immaculate Reception sort of bookend Pittsburgh coming to a peak right before its going down into this valley of economic decline,” says museum director Anne Madarasz. Despite its economic woes, the city took sustenance from the fact that its sports teams continued to be winners, she said.
An enlarged photo of the Negro League’s Pittsburgh Crawfords adorns an adjacent wall in front of the museum’s Negro Leagues exhibit, which draws particular attention to famed slugger Josh Gibson. A statue of Gibson will be unveiled with the creation of an expanded Negro League exhibit and the relaunching of the sports museum in the fall of 2015.
As a lifelong student of the game, I’m familiar with Gibson’s legacy as one of the most prolific sluggers in baseball history and make it a point to visit his gravesite at the Allegheny Cemetery every time I’m in town. Located in what was once a segregated corner of the sprawling cemetery, it’s a great place to contemplate Pittsburgh’s baseball history — and baseball history in general.
Going to Pittsburgh
Getting there: American flies nonstop from Miami, a flight just under three hours. Several airlines make the trip from Miami or Fort Lauderdale in 4 to 4 1/2 hours with a connecting flight. Roundtrip airfare starts around $240 from either city in late September.
WHERE TO STAY
Sheraton Pittsburgh Hotel at Station Square, 300 W. Station Square Dr.; 412-261-2000; www.sheratonpittsburghstationsquare.com. Fantastic location at the base of the charming Mount Washington neighborhood; Gateway Clipper riverboat service available to and from PNC Park. Rooms with Gateway Clipper tickets from $152.
Wyndham Grand Pittsburgh Downtown, 600 Commonwealth Pl.; 412-391-4600; www.wyndham.com. In the Golden Triangle Central Business District. Rooms from $184.
WHERE TO EAT
Church Brew Works, 3525 Liberty Ave.; 412-688-8200; www.churchbrew.com. A former Catholic church converted into a modern brewpub. Eclectic pub grub selections. Entrees from $14.
Round Corner Cantina, 3720 Butler St.; 412-904-2279; www.roundcornercantina.com. Hipster taqueria and cantina with outdoor patio. Variety of taco choices come two per order starting at $7.
WHAT TO DO
PNC Park, 115 Federal St.; 412-321-2827; pittsburgh.pirates.mlb.com. The Pirates have home games until Sept. 21. Tickets start at $14.
Roberto Clemente Museum, 3339 Penn Ave.; 412-621-1268; www.clementemuseum.com. By appointment only. $20.
Western Pennsylvania Sports Museum at the Heinz History Center, 1212 Smallman St.; 412-454-6000; www.heinzhistorycenter.org. Daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. $15; seniors $13; military, students and ages 6-17 $6; 5 and younger free
Allegheny Cemetery, 4734 Butler St.; 412-682-1624; www.alleghenycemetery.com. Monday-Friday 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.