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On the sand: A beach-by-beach guide to Mexico's Riviera Maya

Going to Riviera Maya

Access: Mexico's beaches belong to the government and are theoretically open to all. However many all-inclusive resorts limit access to the sand from the highway. Beach-strollers will find guards preventing non-guests from using their palapas and loungers (wristbands identify which all-inclusive resort you belong to). But watch for dirt roads leading off the northbound side of the highway. Usually unmarked, they sometimes lead to unheralded patches of sand. Aqua shoes are helpful for access along rocky areas.

Getting around: A rental car is the best way to visit hideaway beaches, rented at the Cancun airport or from your hotel front desk; the main highway is easy to navigate and well-maintained. Shared-van service runs regularly from the airport to points south: Budget $28 per person to Playa del Carmen and Playacar (versus $112 for a private taxi for up to four), $47 for Akumal and Tulúm (versus $175 for private); www.cancunsharedshuttle.com.

Maps: The best tourist maps of the area are those sold by Can-Do Travel Guides, which contain plentiful dining recommendations as well. An update of the Riviera Maya map will be released in January 2010; www.cancunmap.com.

Special to The Miami Herald

In the early 1980s, the pristine, beach-girdled Caribbean coast of Mexico's Yucatan peninsula was marked by little more than a few fishing villages. There was a hotel here and a hammock there, but not much of an effort to identify their position, nor much infrastructure to support them.

But just as it did for Cancún, which sprang up about 1974, Mexico's government tourism development agency decided to put a name to this beautiful face, and the Riviera Maya was born. And soon enough a highway paralleling the coast was built, linking this sun-drenched piece of real estate to the busy Cancún airport.

Sure, the name rings of a romanticized marketing conceit, but Riviera Maya is indeed an ideal description of the magic carpet of sand that unrolls virtually unbroken for 81 miles south of Cancún.

Better still is the sheer breadth of vacation options on offer. From elegant hideaway resorts to wallet-conscious all-inclusives, from lively beach bars to candlelit gourmet repasts, Riviera Maya delivers. But since the region's developed areas have sprung up as recently as, well, last month, you are excused for not knowing the difference between Xpu-Há and Xel-Há, Maroma and Mayakobá.

In fact, many travelers assume the Riviera Maya is merely an extension of Cancún, probably in part because they share an airport. It's not. With more than 37,000 hotel rooms of its own -- a number projected to double by 2025 -- and almost 3 million visitors annually, Riviera Maya is a fierce competitor to its more-famous neighbor. But whereas Cancún is a busy resort city, down south the visitors are spread out over a much larger area, and resorts tend to be stand-alone, often more intimate.

So, pack up your rental car at the airport and head south on Highway 307. Let's get the lay of the land.

NORTHERN STAR

The Riviera Maya starts in Puerto Morelos, one of the coast's last genuine fishing villages, 12 miles south of the airport. The beach here is not as impressive as those deeper into the region -- the salt-and-pepper shoreline doesn't glisten quite as brightly, and less-than-translucent seas have a blanket of turtle grass underfoot.

But there are advantages to being based in Puerto Morelos. Your airport transfer is barely 20 minutes, and the proximity to Cancún makes an evening out on the town a realistic option. Nightlife in laid-back Puerto Morelos may be a tad scruffy, but it's fun for an evening or two.

Better still, the barrier reef -- the world's second-longest -- lies less than a mile offshore and this section is a designated marine reserve. And the beaches of Puerto Morelos? Quiet and uncrowded.

WHERE TO STAY: The 496-room Paradisus Riviera Cancún is an all-suite, all-inclusive resort that lines the most favorable stretch of beachfront just north of Puerto Morelos. Amenities include 24-hour room service, a pillow menu and AAA 4-diamond restaurant, plus an adults-only wing heralding butler service. Doubles from $350 all-inclusive ($478 high season); 888-741-5600; www.paradisus.com.

LUXE LANDINGS

Eighteen miles south of the airport begins Riviera Maya's gold coast. Ask a local where his favorite beach sits, watch his eyes go dreamy as he slowly mouths, ``Maroma.''

Virtually untouched by builders until recently, Maroma is where talcum-soft sand and tranquil waters meet at what is arguably the region's finest beach. It was first inhabited by the classy Maroma hotel, a Mayan-Moorish honeymoon oasis.

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