Life moves smoothly along the shores of this Pacific Coast resort town, with casual sunbathers taking a cue from the pelicans deftly skimming above the waves, searching for a snack.

Adventurous souls may choose to join catamaran rides or even to lift off the beach entirely in parasail operations. But a few who leave the long shoreline to look deeper into the city discover that Mazatlán also contains an attractive and atmospheric Spanish colonial section.

It's a popular area for American expatriates, who refer to it as ``Old Town.'' The city's narrow streets, pastel-colored buildings and tree-filled plazas were laid out in typical Spanish style in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Mazatlán's formerly run-down urban center has been successfully refurbished in recent years. Among other attractions for those who seek a change from beach, water sports and the superb sport fishing for which Mazatlán is known: a small archaeological museum at Sixto Osuna 76. It displays pre-Hispanic artifacts and a permanent exhibit of contemporary art.

The central square of Mazatlán, called the Plazuela Machado, served as the background for an especially poignant episode in Mexican history -- the tragic end of one of the world's great operatic sopranos in 1883. Angela Peralta and most of the cast scheduled to perform Verdi's Il Trovatore died -- as did a considerable number of townspeople -- in a sudden epidemic of yellow fever.

Today the Hotel Iterbide, where Peralta died, has been converted into the Municipal Center for the Arts. Next door is the stage where the diva was to have performed, now renamed in her honor as the Angela Peralta Theatre.

Walking tours of Old Town include a visit to the famous theater, old buildings and popular sidewalk cafés. One museum, the Casa Machado, provides a good view overlooking the square.

Mazatlán has plenty of after-dark activity, with some action at the hotels, including folkloric shows. Most well-known of the independent discotheques is the beach-side Valentino's (Avenida Camarón Sábalo, 011-52-669-989-1600).

WHERE TO STAY

In Mazatlán's ``Golden Zone,'' most rooms are in the $100-$200 range for doubles, although some may have lower rates during slow periods.

• El Cid Castilla Beach, one of four El Cid properties in Mazatlán; all rooms have balconies. 011-52-669-913-3333, www.elcid.com.

• Costa de Oro, one of the original hotels in the Golden Zone, with 290 rooms.866-385-0256, www.hotels-mazatlan.com.

• Playa Mazatlán, has 408 rooms, all with private balcony or terrace. 011-52- 866-385-0256, www.hotelplaya.net.

INFORMATION

• Mexico Tourism Board, www.visitmexico.com/wb/Visitmexico/Visit_Mazatlan.

-- ROBERT W. BONE

Travel Arts Syndicate

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