VENICE, Fla. -- With its compact downtown, historic Mediterranean-style architecture and proximity to the Gulf of Mexico, Venice has long been touted as a top place to retire. The shuffleboard and early-bird set feel right at home here, as evidenced by the city's very mature median age of about 69 years.

But look past the Cadillacs and doctor's offices, and you'll find the unexpected: Venice's hip side.

Sure, the city still retains the small-town feel that so many of its retirees love. But an influx of new businesses has helped to bring the circa-1920s downtown into the 21st century. No longer just a go-to spot for T-shirts, tchotchkes and senior-friendly swimwear, it's now also home to trendy clothing and home decor shops, a handful of art galleries, a theater that has staged some cutting-edge productions, and restaurants serving everything from sushi to carpaccio. Which means that the time is right for 20- and 30-something travelers to explore this Southwest Florida city.

BOUTIQUE CULTURE

Fashionistas should start out at the new JoeLee Boutique. Beachy elegance is the vibe here, where dark wood floors and white walls serve as the backdrop for stylish women's clothing and accessories. Label lovers find plenty to choose from, like colorful C&C California T-shirts, jersey dresses by Cosabella, J Brand jeans, and sunglasses from Roberto Cavalli and Tom Ford. ''There's something for everyone, depending on their style,'' says 23-year-old Allison Macrae, who co-owns the store with her sister Sarah. ``And we carry a limited number of each style, so you're not wearing the same thing as someone else.''

A few doors down from JoeLee Boutique on Venice Avenue, the city's main drag, Uptown Girls also stocks fashion-forward women's clothing from labels like Paige Premium Denim, Frankie B. and Lucy Love. A fan of ''things that are recycled,'' owner Kate Heddings complements her shop's apparel with out-of-the-ordinary accessories like Sea Bags, made from recycled sails, and handbags by Kim White, who uses vintage automobile fabrics in her designs.

While her merchandise may be contemporary, the 23-year-old Heddings has found that it's not out of place in the older-skewing city. ''When I first opened, I thought my customers would be more high schoolers and college kids,'' she says. ``But I also have customers who are 80 years old. It's good to serve all age groups. All ladies want jewelry; all ladies want bags.''

Everyone also seems to appreciate a good laugh, which can be had at Nifty Nic Nacs. The retro-flavored shop carries an array of cheeky products, from Mr. T rubber duckies and a Beatles cookie jar to books with titles like Is Your Straight Man Gay Enough? and The Three Martini Family Vacation.

''I have many people come in and say this is the most fun store downtown, which I love to hear,'' says co-owner Jeff O'Berry. ``I like it to be kind of eyebrow-raising humor, but I don't want it to degrade to the level that it's completely offensive. We're not here to offend anyone; we want to have fun with it. There's just enough innuendo to make people laugh.''

Shoppers in the market for stylish home decor have lots of options along this stretch. The Tabletop carries sleek glassware and servingware from names like Alessi, Leonardo, and Bodum. Shabby Chic rules at The Cat's Meow, a source for floral pillows, weathered white furniture, and beaded chandeliers. Seaside Chic carries furnishings, rugs, and accessories with a definite coastal vibe, from nautical rope knot doorstops to dish towels embroidered with starfish and sea horses.

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