From toppling glaciers to belly-flopping humpbacks, many of Alaska's most stunning natural wonders are best marveled at from the deck of a ship. You can't even reach the state capital by land.

But what kind of ship? A big, mass-market cruise ship? A more intimate, education-oriented ship? Or the ''poor man's cruise ship,'' the venerable Alaska ferries?

Each has its own joys and pitfalls, its own comforts and irritations. Chances are that one type of ship suits your travel style, and the others . . . well, not so much.

In the story that follows, we'll help you sort it out by comparing cabins, meals, excursions, on-board entertainment and itineraries. And we'll suggest who will love each type of cruise -- and who would be better off looking elsewhere.

LARGE CRUISE SHIPS

For the vast majority of people who see Alaska by sea, it's not about the existential experience of becoming one with a culture or proving you're a better traveler by ''getting off the beaten path'' and cavorting with grizzlies.

It's a vacation. Jeez, lighten up.

Most folks go by big ship because it's a great combination: no-guilt just-for-fun leisure and comfort in a place of astonishing, life-changing scenery. Alaska is the second-most-popular region for large ships (behind the Caribbean), and that has everything to do with affordability, accessibility and variety -- in cabins, in food, in entertainment -- that simply can't exist on smaller ships and the ferry system.

Those reasons, coupled with room to spread out (not just your tent) and a lower chance of seasickness, make big-ship cruises a great introduction to the 49th state.

There are sacrifices: sharing the railing view with 3,000 shipmates and trying to find a unique experience in a port overflowing with four ships' worth of passengers.

Cabins: Big ships offer the widest variety -- from lower-deck interiors to sprawling luxury suites -- although the smallest room (140 to 160 square feet) is likely to be as big as the larger ones on many smaller ships.

Food: While ''quantity over quality'' is the cliche, most large ships have at least a dozen restaurants and cafes, ranging from a simple pizza counter to elegant, upscale trattoria.

On-board entertainment: In general, large ships have a main theater for Vegas-style revues and (lately) Cirque du Soleil rip-offs, and a collection of lounges and nightclubs for comedians, pianists, dance bands, DJs and (God help us) karaoke.

Shore excursions: With not a lot of variety in itineraries (there are only so many places you can put ships the size of Delaware), cruise lines have expanded their excursions, offering the traditional lumberjack shows, floatplane rides and bus tours, as well as dogsled trips, glacier-gazing helicopter flights and rain forest zip-line adventures. With some planning, some excursions can be booked directly through the vendor instead of through the cruise line, cutting the cost in most cases.

Itineraries: As we said, big ships (and medium ones) are limited by where they can park, so the most popular trips are seven-day voyages out of Seattle or Vancouver that hit the usual suspects: the Inside Passage, Juneau, Ketchikan, Skagway and Glacier Bay. Longer voyages and one-way trips also cover Whittier (which serves as the cruise port for Anchorage), Seward, Haines, Sitka, Prince Rupert, B.C., and a few fjords in Prince William Sound.

Who will love it: Traditional cruisers and first-timers who appreciate the grandeur but who also want a variety of diversions -- including a frangipani body wrap in the day spa -- for when the scenery all starts to look the same. (Also: See ''Who will hate it'' for small ships and Alaska ferries.)

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