Marie Gable, a Fort Lauderdale retiree, has sailed on nearly every cruise line. Carnival, she says, is her favorite.

''It's more fun,'' she said, sailing recently on Carnival's new 113,000-plus ton superliner, Carnival Splendor. ``I like the food, and they seem to get a younger group of people. The ships are gaudy, and I love gaudy.''

Vibrant, whimsical décor is a hallmark of Carnival's ''fun'' ships, designed as fantasy worlds where travelers can leave their cares behind. On Carnival Splendor, that mission is fulfilled as a vision in pink.

THE DOUGHNUTS

Pink ''Lifesavers'' -- or doughnuts, as some fellow travelers dubbed them -- deck wall paper in elevator banks, stairwell, carpets. Comfy banquets lining the long entertainment promenade are crafted in pinkish leather. The grand atrium is a lofted space dotted with pink disks and swirls and lollypop-like flourishes hanging from the banisters, accented retro-style with black.

Think Las Vegas meets Candyland, seen through perpetually rosy glasses, and you get the idea.

The pink in-the-round theme drew its share of critics as well.

''Whoever sold the Carnival execs on these pink doughnuts must have been a relative,'' said John Spoerer of Port St. Lucie, a frequent cruiser. Said wife Linda, 'All I can think of is the strawberry glazed at Dunkin' Donuts.''

Still, the Pretty in Pink theme didn't stop the Spoerers and other cruisers from enjoying what they said they like best about Carnival: Good food, a joyous atmosphere and smart service.

Wait, good food? You bet. Though Carnival sometimes get dissed by sophisticated travelers, many cruise writers agree that its food is better than its competitors, NCL and Royal Caribbean -- and often better than some of its more upscale sister cruise lines. Preparations are contemporary and fresh; you may not find seared foie gras or foamed sauce on the main dining menu, but you will find grilled portobello mushrooms, penne with grilled tiger shrimp and salmon.

Even the Lido deck buffet line so popular at breakfast and lunch features made-to-order items (omelets in the morning, Asian noodle dishes at noon), salad greens that taste fresh-from-the-fields and an abundance of hot-from-the-oven pastries.

Food quality stretches from the 24-hour pizzeria to sit-down restaurants. The star is Pinnacles, the extra-fee steakhouse ($30 per person), that serves up chops, steaks and lobster, with beautifully arrayed starters like a half-dozen escargot in individual puff pastries. Ruth's Chris gets a run for its money here; be sure to book your reservation the minute you get on board.

NEW CLASS

Carnival Splendor is the first in a new class, or series, of ships. Those who have sailed on Carnival's Conquest-class ships will find much that's familiar: Nightlife lounge, disco, piano bar, sushi bar, teen club, coffee shop, jazz club and casino along a long promenade; waterslide and a massive poolside movie screen.

Roomy cabins feature generous leather couches, first-rate beds, duvet coverlets, large closets and pique bathrobes. (Unfortunately, Carnival installs ventilation grills in its cabin doors, which means hall noise sounds like it's happening right next your pillow.)

The layout essentially is the same as on the previous Conquest-class ships, which means guests still get stuck at a couple of pinch points where multi-level public rooms mean you have to go up or down to get across some ship decks.

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