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May 10, 2014 12:00 AM

Unspoiled Kosrae: Micronesian island near the end of the world

The sun came up behind the mangrove trees, a brilliant orange-pink that spread across the sky. And right on time, at 5:30 a.m., the birds started calling — a melodic chaos of chirps, whistles and singsong cries so loud they almost drowned out the crashing surf just yards from my front door.

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