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BROWARD DINING

Roundup | Going beyond burgers and wings on game day

 

In-booth TVs and chef Hodney Doliscar's ribs are two attractions at Beachside Grill.
In-booth TVs and chef Hodney Doliscar's ribs are two attractions at Beachside Grill.
CANDACE WEST / CANDACE WEST

ewalker@MiamiHerald.com

Going out to watch football doesn't have to mean eating greasy bar food. Here are three places that offer a wider selection to go with their wide screens.

BEACHSIDE GRILL

If you're looking for a sports bar without all the craziness, this out-of-the-way spot might be just the ticket. Open a little over a month in the Lauderdale Beachside Hotel, it has taken over the former Damon's Grill.

You can watch the game in the bar area, but for more privacy -- and the chance to adjust the volume -- grab one of the cozy booths with individual TVs.

Chef Hodney Doliscar (Café Emunah, Mark's Las Olas, Himmarshee Bar & Grill) serves up dishes that are a ``little more sophisticated'' than the typical bar yet ``nothing too outrageous.''

Doliscar is still tweaking the menu, but for now it's a mix of Italian and American classics with some original items. One of those is the artichoke fritters appetizer, three crispy balls blending artichokes, blue cheese and basil that made a tangy combo.

Top sellers include baby-back ribs, a chicken paillard sandwich with cheddar and applewood bacon and Angela's Sunday Gravy, a hearty, home-style Italian pasta that is available daily.

The ribs were falling off the bone and sauced just right. The Sunday Gravy is definitely for a hungry eater -- or two people. It's loaded with huge chunks of pork, sausage and a few meatballs and topped with a dollop of ricotta cheese.

While there are still kinks to work out, the potential is definitely here.

Beachside Grill, 4658 N. Ocean Blvd., Lauderdale-by-the-Sea; 954-489-1544; starters and soups $3-$12, salads $7-$12, entrees $9-$24 (most under $20).

SHUCK 'N DIVE

South Florida's home of the LSU Tigers isn't exactly a welcoming place for Florida Gator fans. But this Cajun cafe is a cozy yet lively spot to watch a game and sample hard-to-find food. The New Orleans theme is carried through in the decor with Mardi Gras souvenirs and sports memorabilia.

Arrive early on game day or you'll be waiting for a table or routed to the patio overlooking the parking lot. Come on nongame days for specials like Wednesday's two-for-one oysters or Friday's all-you-can eat fish fry.

On any day, you'll find favorites like gumbo, fried green tomatoes, Cajun smoked sausage, crawfish étouffée, catfish and po'boy sandwiches.

We started with a crawfish mac n' cheese appetizer that had plenty of the marquee ingredients and a spicy kick, but wasn't hot enough temperature-wise. The fried shrimp and oyster combo was lightly breaded and not greasy. Choose two sides from a long list of Southern favorites like collards, red beans and rice and hush puppies.

Served in a bread bowl, the seafood gumbo brings shrimp, oysters, crawfish and tiny crab claws in a broth thickened with a hearty brown roux -- a perfect dose of comfort food, New Orleans style.

Shuck 'N Dive, 650 N. Federal Hwy., Fort Lauderdale; 954-462-0088; starters and soups $3.99-$8.99, raw bar $9.99-$10.99, salads $7.99-$8.99, burgers and po'boys $8.49-$12.99, entrees $10.99-$18.99.

GERONIMOS This Davie neighborhood bar and grill has stood the test of time better than most in a shopping center that is half-empty. Next door to Nova Southeastern University, it draws a mix of college kids and locals.

Walls that used to divide the restaurant and bar are gone, opening up the space for easier TV viewing, so don't expect a quiet dinner on game day.

The menu ranges from sandwiches, salads and wraps to Greek specialties and more ambitious dishes like chicken macadamia and salmon oreganato.

We've enjoyed the food here before, but this time we were disappointed. The meat on the gyro platter was dry and tasteless, and the grilled tuna loin melt wasn't cooked to our specifications. A Colby jack burger was the best of the bunch, but nothing special. We're hoping the kitchen just had an off day.

Geronimos Bar & Grill, 3528 S. University Dr., Davie; 954-474-9998, www.geronimosbar.com; appetizers $4.99-$12.99, burgers, sandwiches and salads $7.99-$11.99, Greek dishes $9.99-$10.99, entrees $16.99-$19.99.

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