You're sipping a piña colada at twilight, watching the mega yachts glide by on a shimmering sea. The foam tickles your nose. The heady aromas of garlic, smoke and simmering sauces mingle with the balmy breeze. Stress melts away.

Ah, to be on vacation in Fort Lauderdale. But wait; you live here. So if having a drink and some coconut shrimp by the water sounds pretty good about now, stop by Coconuts, one of the best restaurant-bar scenes in Fort Lauderdale. When out-of-town guests want to chill, it's often my first stop on the way home from the airport.

Since taking over in 2007, owners Elliot Wolf and Merv Jonota have worked on honing the menu, turning out better food to go with the laid-back vibe and primo location, Coconuts' best feature.

During the summer, the atmosphere is lively but not as frenetic as during tourist season. And the young staff is well-trained and more attentive than you'd expect at a beach business.

The menu is limited, but there are usually several daily appetizer and entree specials, like our refreshing plate of locally grown heirloom tomatoes. Their sweet, succulent, summertime taste is bolstered by a bracing champagne vinaigrette, a sprinkling of Maytag blue cheese and crunchy crumbled croutons. Another special: a grilled whole artichoke with a sprinkling of Parmesan and bread crumbs, a classic you rarely see in restaurants anymore.

At a place called Coconuts, you have to try the coconut shrimp, and these are delish -- the shrimp are plump and supple, the coating crunchy without being overcooked. The conch fritters, however, were a disappointment on another visit, with little flavor, little conch and a too-doughy batter. Lighter options includes appealing salads like the house with a papaya dressing.

Coconuts is known for its fresh fish tacos, but the kitchen also does a good job with the catch of the day. The grilled striped bass was perfectly cooked, topped with lump crab and a light lemon butter sauce that wasn't fussy or overpowering, served with nicely grilled asparagus.

On a Friday night, Coconuts' cooks were whipping up batches of paella at an outside station (it's usually available twice a week) with the tropical sound of a steel drum in the background. Perfect. We were happy we took our sharp young server's advice and ordered it, because the paella was a feast -- mussels, chorizo, pork, swordfish, shrimp, a halved, five-ounce lobster tail and tender chicken thighs on a bed of moist saffron rice -- big enough to share.

Pan-seared scallops are also a good bet, plump and juicy, served with thick-sliced tomatoes and arugula.

On another, busier night, our entrees weren't quite as impressive. Danish baby back ribs were tender, a basic rendition elevated by the chipotle-spiked barbecue sauce with chopped pineapple. The fish and grits (sautéed snapper, served with cooked tomatoes) were good if a little oily, but didn't live up to the high expectations of my Southern dining companion.

Satisfy your inner child -- or bring your tykes -- for fun desserts like a Snickers-style torte with nuts, nougat and caramel or a chocolate pretzel torte with a rich ganache atop a crust of crushed pretzels. Our favorite was a more grown-up coconut cheesecake with lots of flaked coconut.

The menu and awnings here are scrawled with the simple words: ``Be nice.'' Easy enough when you're hanging out at Coconuts.

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