The home seltzer market is really fizzing, whether it is because of parents weaning kids off commercial sodas, environmentalists fretting over the carbon footprint of their imported waters or penny pinchers tired of paying someone else to carbonate their drinks.

One home soda machine maker, Sodastream USA, went from nearly zero revenue in 2003 to $7 million in 2008. This year, it is on pace to double that figure, according to marketing director Kristin Harp. Williams-Sonoma representatives also report that they are having a hard time keeping up with demand for the CO2 tanks for the machines.

Personal carbonation equipment ranges in price from $45 for old-fashioned seltzer sprayers to more than $1,000 for restaurant-quality carbonation machines. We decided to test three machines that fell between those price points to judge which machine works best.

Fountain Jet

(best choice)

Price: For machine, two plastic bottles and a 33-ounce CO2 tank to make the first 110 liters, $90 at sodastreamusa.com

Looks: Not slick but still sporty (comes in red, black and white) and attractive on the countertop.

Taste: Excellent with tap or filtered water.

Ease of use: As easy as filling the bottle, screwing it into place, pumping the fizz button, pressing the release button and unscrewing it from machine.

Pros: Fairly economical and super-easy to use. Plus, the plastic bottles are easier to throw in your work or picnic bag than glass or metal canisters. The CO2 canisters are exchangeable for a refund at Williams-Sonoma stores, where you also can buy refill tanks. Call in advance to make sure tanks are in stock; they sell out quickly.

Cons: It makes a distinctly flatulent sound while carbonating water, which can be embarrassing/amusing depending on the company.

Best for: Families or users who drink a fair amount of seltzer and prefer fun over fancy.

Also tested:

IsI Soda Siphon,

No. 2248

Price: For the machine ($47) and first 100 CO2 chargers ($38.50): $85.50 at amazon.com

Looks: Very spiffy and nicely retro for those hoping to re-create a 1950s bar look.

Taste: Good and clean.

Ease of use: More complicated than the others with more moving parts, including tubes inside the canister that must be removed and replaced during filling, and a cap that goes over the charger when you release the CO2 into the canister. You also need to use very cold water and shake up the liquid before using. Not a task you can let your kids, for example, handle on their own.

Pros: Looks cool. Takes up very little space and costs less than others. Easily portable.

Cons: Not as much fizz as the other two; you can't control the carbonation level of your water. And, although the IsI company says that the cartridges are recyclable in communities where they accept ST4 steel, we had a hard time finding a recycling program that lists it.

Penguin

Price: For machine, two glass bottles and first 120 liters, $200 at sodastreamusa.com

Looks: Very sleek and art deco. A conversation piece for all visitors to your kitchen, home bar or dining room.

Taste: Excellent, much like the Fountain Jet.

Ease of use: Once you learn how to use the door release, it's a matter of simply pumping the lever and removing the bottle.

Pros: Elegant glass bottles are easy to grip and can go straight from machine to fancy dinner party table. Machine makes inoffensive whistle sound when water is ready. CO2 canisters are exchangeable for a refund at Williams-Sonoma stores, where you can also buy refill tanks.

Cons: Takes only the 14.5-ounce rather than the 33-ounce CO2 tanks that the Fountain Jet does. Can be too tall to fit under cabinets on many kitchen counters.

Best for: Those who prefer glass bottles over plastic and want a machine that blends with their elegant decor.

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