PLANT CLINIC
How to avoid problems in the vegetable garden
BY ADRIAN HUNSBERGER
aghu@ifas.ufl.edu
Q: Each year I have a lot of disease problems in my vegetable garden. What am I doing wrong? Is there any thing I can do other than using sprays?
B.E.,
Cooper City
A: There are several cultural methods you can use to reduce the incidence of diseases in your garden. Such methods include spacing your plants far enough apart to allow for good air circulation, buying varieties resistant to disease and nematodes (the seed package or plant label will state ``VFN'' if the variety is resistant to two common fungal diseases and to nematodes), using mulch, and watering in the morning so the foliage dries quickly. You may want to purchase healthy transplants grown locally instead of growing from seed as young seedlings can be very susceptible to disease.
When watering your garden, avoid wetting the plants. Try watering the soil only. Drip irrigation or a soaker hose can be an efficient way to water your garden.
Q: Help. My plants in my yard look terrible and some are dying but I don't understand why. I water almost everyday and fertilize with liquid fertilizer.
S.R., Miami
A: Unless your plants were recently planted and still establishing their root system, or your plants are in containers, additional water isn't needed in most cases. Due to our high water table, most trees and shrubs are able to get enough water year-round. Annuals, including vegetables, and a few perennials like some gingers may require irrigation if it's not raining frequently. Lawns should be watered after 50 percent or more of the leaf blades are folded in the morning.
Water only if the plants need it, as frequent irrigation increases the occurrence of plant diseases, leaches nutrients out of the soil, which becomes a source of water pollution as well as causing nutritional deficiencies.
Use a slow release (controlled-release) fertilizer. Liquid fertilizers are fine for potted plants or your vegetable garden if needed but are inefficient for the landscape because they are quickly leached away.
Adrian Hunsberger is an entomologist/horticulturist with the UF/
IFAS Miami-Dade Extension office. Write to Plant Clinic, 18710 SW 288th St., Homestead, FL 33030; e-mail aghu@ifas.ufl.edu.





















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