Q:I'm confused about hyaluronic acid. I know it can be injected with dermal fillers like Restylane, but I've also seen it in moisturizers. Can I skip needles and just splurge on a cream?
A: Let me make one thing clear: There is no way to replenish hyaluronic acid in the dermis, your deeper layer of skin, with topical products. Its molecules are simply too large to penetrate that deeply. Hyaluronic acid is often found in skin creams, though, because of its superior ability to bind to moisture.
Hyaluronic acid is the natural skin component that holds onto moisture and plumps skin, but we naturally lose it as we age. The result? Wrinkles and a loss of facial fullness. That's why some of the most popular dermal fillers on the market use hyaluronic acid.
Because hyaluronic acid so effectively holds onto water, it can also be a useful moisturizing ingredient. And you don't necessarily need to splurge on it. Affordable brands like CeraVe, for example, make products with hyaluronic acid.
Bottom line: If you're interested in replenishing your skin's hyaluronic acid to minimize wrinkles, dermal fillers are the only option. As far as moisturizers go, it's more important to look for skin type-appropriate products than to hunt for hyaluronic acid, which is not more effective than proven moisturizers like glycerin or ceramides.
Dr. Leslie Baumann a board certified dermatologist at the University of Miami's Miller School of Medicine. E-mail: drb@drbaumann.com.
