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SKIN DEEP

Exfoliating products aren't for everybody

DrB@DrBaumann.com

Q: I know that some skin types shouldn't use abrasive exfoliating products -- but which skin types?

A: You're absolutely right. Many people with sensitive skin should not use abrasive exfoliating scrubs, as the friction can increase redness and further compromise an impaired skin barrier.

So how do you know if you have sensitive skin? There are several different ways.

People who experience frequent redness and flushing, and particularly if they have rosacea, should steer clear of abrasive cleansers or sponges of any kind. Inflammation is at the root of those conditions, and a scrub will only exacerbate the effects.

For some people, skin sensitivity manifests as frequent stinging or burning in reaction to skin-care products. They, too, should avoid scrubs -- the friction can further impair skin's natural defensive barrier against irritants, making stinging worse.

The friction of a facial scrub may also worsen acne, rupturing and actually prolonging the life span of pimples, so I generally recommend that breakout-prone patients avoid them.

Anyone using retinoids -- even those who do not have sensitive skin -- should also use caution when it comes to scrubs. Retinoids are powerful exfoliating ingredients, and adding an abrasive product to the mix can be too much of a good thing. Retinoid-users should hold off on using scrubs until they've been using their retinoid consistently for two months, and should discontinue use if skin becomes red or painful to touch.

Remember that there are ways to speed cell turnover without scrubs, even if you do have sensitive skin. Nonabrasive ingredients like salicylic acid and retinoids are ideal for sloughing off dead skin cells without exacerbating inflammation.

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