WINE
Blends fit the holiday bill
By FRED TASKER
ftasker@MiamiHerald.com
With Thanksgiving just two weeks away, it's time to think about the most important part of the feast. And Turkey Day wine pairings are a challenge. I mean, what wine goes with turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, gravy, yams, cranberries, green bean casserole, creamed onions and pumpkin pie?
I think I've found an answer. How about a wine made with five grapes? Or seven? Or even 10? With all those flavors swirling around in both food and wine, something's bound to click. So today we talk about ``super-blend'' wines.
It might sound like winemakers are cleaning out their bins, getting rid of dribs and drabs of this and that, but some of these blends are marvelously rich and complex -- great matches for multi-flavored meals.
When I first tasted Conundrum white wine from California's Caymus Vineyard in 2000, it was made of five grapes -- sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, semillon, viognier and muscat. Today its makers hint that they use even more grapes, but they won't identify them. That's the ``conundrum,'' they say. But the wine is rich and hearty, just right for Thanksgiving.
In Australia's Barossa Valley, Dave Powell wanted to produce a wine similar to France's user-friendly beaujolais. But the gamay grape doesn't grow there, so he put together a similar-style wine made of grenache, mataro and shiraz. It's at least as good as beaujolais with turkey.
In California, iconoclastic Bonny Doon Vineyard blends multiple Rhne-style grapes seeking rich, complex ``Old World'' wines. Its ``Le Cigare Volant'' red wine is made of grenache, mourve`dre, syrah, carignane and cinsault; ``Le Cigare Blanc'' white wine of roussanne and grenache blanc, and ``Vin Gris de Cigare'' rosé of grenache, cinsault, roussanne, mourve`dre, syrah and grenache blanc.
Equally traditional is the Rhne-style blend called Blancaneaux by filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola's Rubicon Estate in California. It's a rich, complex blend of marsanne, roussanne and viognier grapes.
In Oregon's Willamette Valley, the Sokol Blosser Winery has worked on the grape blend for its proprietary white wine to the point that it is called Evolution. It has nine grapes in the blend -- muller-thurgau, white riesling, semillon, pinot gris, gewürztraminer, muscat canelli, chardonnay, pinot blanc and sylvaner. It's slightly sweet, with layers of flavor in the German style.
It's not certain that Kendall-Jackson's ``Summation'' white holds the record, but it's a blend of 10 grapes -- sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, semillon, viognier, pinot blanc, roussanne, marsanne, grenache blanc, gewürztraminer and chenin blanc.
The name ``Summation'' comes from ``the legal term for a final statement that summarizes principal points,'' says winemaker Randy Ullom.
If you try one of these wines with your turkey feast, I'm sure you'll find something to be thankful for.
HIGHLY
RECOMMENDED
2005 Bonny Doon Vineyard ``Le Cigare Volant'' red wine, California: aromas and flavors of black cherries, earth, maybe even truffles, rich and smooth and full-bodied, with ripe tannins; $32.
2008 ``Conundrum'' white wine, California: aromas of lavender and honeysuckle, rich, complex flavors of green apples, ripe peaches and spice, silky smooth, lightly sweet; $18.
RECOMMENDED
2009 Torbreck ``Cuvée Juveniles,'' Barossa Valley, Australia: crisp, clean and tart, with cherry and espresso flavors; $25.
2005 Niebaum-Coppola ``Blancaneaux'' white wine, Napa Valley: rich and complex, with aromas and flavors of lemon flowers, citrus and cloves; $40.
2008 Kendall-Jackson ``Summation'' Vintner's Reserve white wine, California: a tiny hint of sweetness, aromas and flavors of grapefruit, peaches and golden apples, super-rich; $17.
2007 Bonny Doon Vineyard ``Le Cigare Blanc'' white wine, Arroyo Seco: aromas of white flowers, flavors of ripe apples and cinnamon, minerally, rich; $22.
2008 Bonny Doon Vineyard ``Vin Gris de Cigare'' rosé wine, California: very dry, with tart strawberry and cranberry flavors, rich; $15.
Nonvintage ``Evolution'' white wine by Sokol Blosser Winery, Dundee Hills, Oregon: crisp, lively and lightly sweet, with aromas and flavors of lychee and orange blossoms, citrus fruit, grapefruit-tinged finish; $18.





















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