Bertrand de Fleurian, U.S. president of Laurent-Perrier Champagne, has three definitions of luxury. First is drinking Laurent-Perrier. Second is having the time to do what one pleases. Third is having someone you want to please.

These days, of course, if you're laid off, you have plenty of the second luxury, but maybe some trouble affording the first.

De Fleurian sighs. It's not easy selling champagnes for $49 to $450 a bottle in the middle of a recession. We've made concessions, he says. In March, Laurent-Perrier cut its prices by 10 percent, but still saw U.S. exports plummet by 40 percent.

``Maybe our price increases were too high when things were good. I think the recession here is worse than in Europe. But it started here and it will end here.''

Founded in 1812, Laurent-Perrier was purchased in 1939 by Marie-Louise Lanson de Nonancourt of the French Lanson champagne family. While her sons, Maurice and Bernard, fought the Germans during World War II, she hid 100,000 bottles of champagne from the invaders.

Maurice was killed and Bernard de Nonancourt took ownership in 1949, slowly building the champagne house into France's third largest, today making 8 million bottles a year.

De Nonancourt was an innovator. He was first to blend three vintages into his top champagnes for greater complexity, and to age his bubbly in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks instead of oak barrels.

His overriding goal was to make the freshest, fruitiest, easiest-to-drink champagne.

``It's the house style,'' says de Fleurian.

In 1980, de Nonancourt introduced France's first -- and now only -- ``brut nature'' made with no dosage, that final bit of sugar and champagne usually put into bottles just before corking. The resulting wine is ultra-dry but also ultra-rich because it's made only in ripe and sunny years. It's a fabulous wine with rich food.

What now for Bertrand de Fleurian?

``We're preparing for the economic recovery, which will come. Don't ask me when.''

HIGHLY

RECOMMENDED

• Nonvintage Laurent-Perrier Brut, Tours-sur-Marne: pale gold, pinpoint bubbles; light as air, crisp and delicate, with white grapefruit flavors; $49.

• Multi-Vintage Grand Sie`cle de Laurent-Perrier: firm but delicate; complex; intense aromas and flavors of nuts, bread dough and white peaches; $200.

• 1997 Grand Sie`cle Alexandra Rosé: onion peel color; fine bubbles; aromas and flavors of cranberries and cream; very complex, intense; full-bodied but subtle; $450.

RECOMMENDED

• Nonvintage Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut, Tours-sur-Marne: pale gold; rich and full-bodied; ultra dry; long finish; $85.

• Nonvintage Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut, Tours-sur-Marne: deep pink; tiny bubbles; tart strawberry flavors; light and delicate; $100.

Join the discussion

The Miami Herald is pleased to provide this opportunity to share information, experiences and observations about what's in the news. Some of the comments may be reprinted elsewhere in the site or in the newspaper. We encourage lively, open debate on the issues of the day, and ask that you refrain from profanity, hate speech, personal comments and remarks that are off point. In order to post comments, you must be a registered user of MiamiHerald.com. Your username will show along with the comments you post. Thank you for taking the time to offer your thoughts.

     Showing: Oldest first Newest first Most-recommended first Least-recommended first

@Nyx.AuthorDisplayName@ wrote on @Nyx.PostedAtTime@:

@Nyx.repliedToText@

@Nyx.replyAnswerText@

Reply to this Comment @Nyx.Recommender@ @Nyx.AbuseReporter@