Here's one for you: What kind of wine goes with sauerkraut?

Easy. It's riesling. Not just any riesling, but the powerful, aromatic riesling from the French region of Alsace.

Choucroute is what French-speaking Alsacians call the fermented cabbage and pork dish that is their most famous. And riesling is their most famous wine. It only makes sense, since the two have existed side by side for centuries.

Alsace, the often-fought-over border region that has passed between French and German hands, has a special place in wine lovers' hearts. A little warmer than Germany, it produces German-style wines that are a bit bolder -- bigger in alcohol, usually bone-dry, with more powerful flavor -- just the kinds of wines we Americans like.

And the Alsacians -- bless their hearts -- put the names of the grapes on their bottles, not the region as in the rest of France, so we unworldly Americans can tell what we're drinking.

More than 90 percent of Alsacian wines are white, typically composed of riesling (23 percent), pinot blanc (20 percent), gewürztraminer (18 percent), pinot gris (12 percent) and sylvaner (12 percent).

One of the best and most experienced producers is Lucien Albrecht, the 18th generation of a family-run farming and winery firm called Jean Albrecht that dates back to 1425.

Alsacian wines are great with seafood and creamy chicken dishes. Gewürztraminer, with its bold flavors, goes well with foie gras and strong cheeses. I once took a bottle of Alsacian gewürzt to a Cuban pig roast and was the most popular guy there -- high praise in South Florida.

HIGHLY

RECOMMENDED

• Nonvinitage Lucien Albrecht Blanc de Blancs Cremant d'Alsace Brut (sparkling wine from the pinot blanc grape): delicate, pinpoint bubbles; light body; aromas and flavors of white flowers and minerals; $17.

RECOMMENDED

• 2008 Lucien Albrecht Gewürztraminer Reserve, Alsace: sweetly floral aroma; rich, spicy lychee flavors; very dry; long finish; $18.

• 2008 Lucien Albrecht Pinot Gris Cuvée Romanus, Alsace: lightly sweet with flavors of minerals and citrus; $18.

• 2008 Lucien Albrecht Pinot Blanc Cuvée Balthazar, Alsace: delicate and dry, with aromas and flavors of vanilla and green apples; $19.

• 2008 Lucien Albrecht Riesling Reserve, Alsace: light and bright, with aromas and flavors of minerals and golden apples; $19.

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