The French have an advantage over Americans in making pinot noir -- a 1,000-year head start. The hallowed 4 ½-acre plot in Burgundy where the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti makes its $1,000-a-bottle pinot noir wines was first planted in 1040. California didn't get into the grape in a big way until the 1970s and '80s

Even then, it's been so hard to grow and quirky to make that winemakers call it ``the heartbreak grape.'' Which is one reason the wines are relatively expensive.

To make things worse, California growers at first planted many pinot noir grapes in the wrong spots -- places that were too hot with too much California sun.

The 1990s plague of the root louse phylloxera, which compelled the replanting of thousands of acres of California vines, was a blessing in disguise. By then, growers understood that pinot noir likes a cooler climate, so they planted it in places where the Pacific Ocean fog often obscures the sun until midday.

James MacPhail of Sequana Vineyards chose Green Valley, a particularly cool area of the already cool Russian River Valley, to produce a crisp and lively pinot noir with tart cranberry flavors and remarkable smoothness.

Black Kite Cellars choose the cool, foggy ``Deep End'' of the northern Anderson Valley to grow pinot noir among the giant redwood forests.

Sanford Winery & Vineyards chose the Pacific-cooled Santa Rita Hills, and was put on the world wine map when the wine-snob character in the 2004 movie Sideways sang its praises.

Early on, California pinot noirs were used to make sparkling wine. When Spain's Ferrer family came to the state's cool Carneros region in 1982, it was to make sparkling wine of chardonnay and pinot noir. In the 1990s it started making pinot noir as a still wine in that same lean, crisp style.

California growers hate it when critics compare their pinot noirs to France's pinot-based Burgundies. So we won't. We will just say California has come a long way.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

•  2007 Sequana Pinot Noir ``Dutton Ranch,'' Green Valley of Russian River Valley: crisp, light and spicy, with tart strawberry-cranberry flavors and soft tannins; very smooth; $40.

•  2006 Gloria Ferrer Carneros Pinot Noir, Sonoma: lean, crisp and intensely fruity, with black cherry and cocoa flavors; smooth; $28.

RECOMMENDED

•  2006 Kenwood Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley: crisp and fruity, with red raspberry and espresso flavors; $15.

•  2007 Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir, California: dark and concentrated, with black plum and licorice flavors; $12.

•  2007 Black Kite Cellars ``Kite's Rest'' Vineyard Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley: black cherries, dark chocolate and licorice; opulent; $42.

•  2007 Sequana Pinot Noir ``Sarmento Vineyard,'' Santa Lucia Highlands: black cherries and black pepper, earth and oak; $32.

•  2007 Sanford Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills: black plums, anise and herbs; rich and spicy; $40.

•  2007 Sequana Pinot Noir ``Sundawg Ridge Vineyard,'' Green Valley of Russian River Valley: black plums and cinnamon, crisp acids, soft tannins; $59.

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