A recent book offers comfortable takes on traditional -- and easy -- dishes.

Clifford A. Wright's Bake Until Bubbly (Wiley, $22.95) thoroughly probes the historical and modern origins of his subject, collecting casserole recipes that span the globe, from moussaka and cassoulet to Brazilian fish casserole and the Iraqi stuffed eggplant casserole known as ``Tongue of the Judge.''

I kept it simple and made Corn-and-Oyster Casserole, a buttery custard with creamed corn and a cup of fresh shucked oysters. There's a reason this classic dish is renowned. It reminds you of Thanksgiving, as did the dessert I made: Wright's Cranberry-Apple-Walnut Crisp. But treat yourself all year.

With freshly grated nutmeg and orange zest, the sweet concoction scented the kitchen like potpourri. I substituted dried cranberries for fresh ones, cut back on the sugar and also used cherry brandy in place of the dark rum Wright called for. It's a winning end to any meal. Don't forget that dollop of vanilla ice cream!

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