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COOKBOOKS

Writers tout simple joys of cooking for one

San Francisco Chronicle

I recently sat with two friends in a restaurant at the end of an elaborate meal, glued to our chairs with heavy stomachs. One looked up from her plate and groaned. ``Do you ever finish a meal and just feel great?'' she asked, ``like you didn't totally overdo it?''

The other thought about it for a minute, and then nodded her head. ``Yes. I always feel good when I cook for myself at home,'' she replied. ``I know exactly what I'm putting in my body, and I can make exactly what sounds good to me.''

It makes total sense, and yet so many people who live alone opt for takeout, cold cereal or a meal out with friends -- anything to avoid cooking and cleaning for one measly portion.

But with new books on the market, well-known authors remind readers that solo cooking and dining can -- and should -- be gratifying.

After her husband died more than 10 years ago, Judith Jones, a highly regarded book editor and the person who got Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking published, thought her cooking days were over. She soon realized, however, that she looked forward to coming home and making herself something special. The Pleasures of Cooking for One (Alfred A. Knopf. 276 pages. $27.95.) is a collection of some of those recipes.

The bulk of the book is devoted to ``cooking through the week,'' where Jones gives a main recipe, such as broiled lamb chops or skirt steak, then adds a second or third round, providing recipes for the leftovers.

Nothing feels thrown together, and Jones makes a point of presenting dishes that look appetizing. The Steamed Egg(s) Nestled in a Bed of Greens, for example, is as simple as it gets, but looks colorful and appetizing.

Deborah Madison, cookbook author and the founding chef of Greens restaurant, and her husband, Patrick McFarlin, present a more whimsical view in What We Eat When We Eat Alone (Gibbs Smith; 272 pages; $24.99), culling recipes and ideas for solo meals from everyday people that they interviewed.

The couple found that ``what most people want is to be involved in preparing their meals, but to a limited extent only.'' To that end, readers will find a collection of fairly easy recipes.

``You can choose to make just what (i/you feel like'' -- writes Jones, so they recommend substituting to cater to your own tastes.

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