MAIN DISH

MUSSELS IN ASIAN BROTH

Serve with plenty of crusty bread or pasta, and set an empty bowl on the table for the shells. Pour the same wine in which the mussels were cooked -- any crisp, medium-bodied, somewhat acidic white. A 2006 Pine Ridge Carneros Chardonnay would be a good choice.

• 3 pounds black mussels

• 2-inch piece of fresh ginger

• 1 stalk lemon grass

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• 1 teaspoon Chinese sambal chile paste (available at Asian groceries)

• 2 tablespoons chopped garlic

• 1 cup dry white wine

• 1 cup fish stock or clam juice

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter

• Salt and freshly ground pepper

• Juice of 1 lemon

• Leaves from 1 bunch cilantro

Prepare mussels as directed in column. Peel ginger and slice it thinly. Stack slices and cut into thin strands. Peel tough outer leaves from lemon grass. Cut the stalk into 1-inch sticks. Lightly smash the sticks.

Heat oil in a 6-quart pot over medium high heat. Sauté ginger, lemon grass, chile paste and garlic 1 minute. Add wine, fish stock and mussels. Cover and steam mussels, shaking pot frequently, until they open, about 6 minutes. Discard unopened ones. Use a slotted spoon to put mussels into a serving bowl. Keep warm in a low oven.

Cook broth until it is reduced by half. Cut the butter into bits and let it melt into the broth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add lemon juice and cilantro. Pour broth over mussels and serve. Makes 2 main-dish servings or 4 appetizer servings.

Source: Adapted from A Life by the Sea by chef Dean James Max (DJM, $40).

Per serving (based on 2): 680 calories (45 percent from fat), 34 g fat (13.8 g saturated, 11.7 g monounsaturated), 158.9 mg cholesterol, 51.3 g protein, 21.8 g carbohydrates, 0.4 g fiber, 1,356.6 mg sodium.

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