MAIN DISH

RICE WITH MANGO (Arroz con Mango)

When we Cubans get ourselves into a complicated mess, we say we are in an arroz con mango, literally ''rice with mango.'' This turn of phrase became a real dish in our home in Oriente Province during the severe food shortage of the late 1960s. We had plenty of mangoes that season, and wild culantro grew near the water well. With these two ingredients, my father created a dish of unexpected charm that made us all laugh. When I make my more abundant versions of the dish, such this a riff on Cuban-Chinese fried rice, I remember those hard times and the light-hearted way in which Cubans deal with adversity. Serve with an avocado and watercress salad and a floral white wine such as Susana Balbo Críos Torrontés ($15) from Mendoza, Argentina.

• 2 medium mangoes (preferably half ripe)

• ¼ cup soy sauce

• 2 tablespoons Japanese brown rice vinegar or cider vinegar

• 1 teaspoon aged rum

• 1 teaspoon brown sugar

• 1 small chicken breast (about 4 ½ ounces), diced

• ¼ pound smoked ham, cut into ¼ inch dice

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

• 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped

• 1 medium red bell pepper, seeded and cut into ¼-inch dice

• 3 scallions with 3 inches green, finely chopped

• 5 medium shiitake mushrooms, rinsed, patted dried, stem removed and cut into ½-inch dice

• 4 cups cooked white rice

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped culantro or cilantro

• A 2-egg omelet, lightly salted and coarsely chopped

• ¼ cup frozen or fresh peas

• Additional soy sauce to taste

Peel the mango and cut into ¼-inch dice; place in a small bowl.

In another bowl, whisk the soy sauce with the vinegar, rum and sugar. Add the chicken and ham and toss to coat with the sauce. Set aside for at least 10 minutes.

In a wok or 12-inch skillet, heat the oil over medium heat until it sizzles. Add the garlic and sauté for 10 seconds. Add the onion, bell pepper, scallion and mushrooms and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes.

Add the chicken, ham and sauce, and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes.

Add the rice, cilantro, diced omelet and peas, and cook, stirring with more soy sauce to taste or a bit of vinegar if needed, until all the ingredients are combined and the rice acquires a uniform tan color. Add diced mangoes and toss with the rice to combine. Makes 6 servings.

Per serving: 341 calories (21 percent from fat), 8.2 g fat (1.7 g saturated, 4.7 g monounsaturated), 91.9 mg cholesterol, 16.7 g protein, 50.3 g carbohydrates, 3.8 g fiber, 1.357 mg sodium.

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