Traditional Steak Diane is prepared tableside in a flourish -- butter, tenderloin, cream, brandy and a burst of flames. Quick by nature, it is easy to adapt to the Desperation Dinner table even during midweek madness.

We've lightened our rendition by using half-and-half. If the extra calories aren't a problem, cream is delicious. Since we don't usually stock shallots, we've substituted scallions. If you have shallots, feel free to use them.

Even though brandy is also optional (just use an additional 1/4 cup of broth), we hate to leave that out. The brandy makes this dish exciting, not just because of the showy fireworks but also for the distinct flavor it imparts to the smooth and savory sauce. Serving our Desperate Diane over egg noodles helps make sure that you don't miss a single drop.

Beverly Mills and Alicia Ross' latest book is Cheap. Fast. Good! Their website is www.kitchenscoop.com.

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