Legendary editor’s new cookbook is for the dogs

09/02/2014 5:54 PM

09/02/2014 5:56 PM

Judith Jones has literally reviewed thousands of recipes.

In her more than four decades at Alfred A. Knopf Publishing, Jones edited cookbooks written by Julia Child, James Beard, Jacques Pépin, Lidia Bastianich and other culinary legends.

Now 90, happily retired and a legend in her own right (she earned a Beard Foundation lifetime achievement award in 2006), Jones is set to release a collection of recipes — for dogs.

Far from a primer on dog food, “ Love Me, Feed Me” takes readers into the kitchen with Jones and Mabon, her Havanese pup. In it, she highlights 50 dishes that are stimulating and economical for her to make, and delicious to both her and Mabon.

She started cooking human food for her dog after consulting with a veterinarian, who told her the practice was healthy so long as she fed her companion the same things she would a growing child.

“So I worked out my own formula,” Jones writes, “one-third meat, poultry, fish, eggs; one-third fresh vegetables that are good for dogs; one-third starches (rice, pastas, grains, dried beans).”

In Miami, where dog-friendly restaurants like Harry’s Pizzeria, Taperia Raca and Basil Park are quick to offer water bowls and even snacks for visiting pups, it’s no surprise that many chefs have furry best friends, too.

We asked four of them — Tim Andriola, Hedy Goldsmith, Nicolay Adinaguev and Makoto Okuwa — to try recipes from Jones’ new book ($24.95, on sale Oct. 28) and report back with their dogs’ reactions.

Braised Beef Shanks

Chef: Tim Andriola ( Timo, Basil Park)

Dog: Romeo, 1-year-old labradoodle

Having just opened a new restaurant, Basil Park, that only serves grass-fed beef, I was immediately drawn to the beef shank recipe in Jones’ cookbook and thought it would be the perfect recipe to test for our labradoodle, Romeo. I love slow-cooked food rich with flavor, and having a nice bone seeping with marrow seemed like an ideal dinner for anyone, but especially for a young pup who would appreciate it the most.

The moment I brought the shanks into the house I could sense Romeo’s anticipation of the special treat that was to come. Slow-braising the shanks for close to three hours (about twice as long as called for in the recipe) filled our house with an aroma that surely drove him mad.

In the end, it was well worth his patience: He devoured the meat from the shank, licked the plate clean and enjoyed the bone as an after-dinner treat while relaxing on the couch.

The recipe calls for “shanks” and broth “as needed.” You will need to ask your butcher for sliced shanks (whole ones are huge), and you will need about 4 to 6 quarts of stock to braise the meat just right.

Ground Turkey ‘Paté’

Chef: Hedy Goldsmith (Michael’s Genuine, Cypress Room, Harry’s Pizzeria, The Genuine Hospitality Group)

Dogs: Sweetpea and Cooper, 4-year-old shih tzus

My official tasters, Sweetpea and her brother Cooper, love food, period. Their daily diet consists of organic chicken and vegetables. I purchased my ingredients at Trader Joe’s (my pups like their organic poultry).

The recipe was pretty straightforward: turkey meatloaf only kicked up a bit with dried mushrooms. I used porcini powder, and I added more ginger and curry than the recipe calls for.

I baked the paté per the recipe, only I used a Twinkie pan rather than a loaf pan, which made them bake faster. I pulled them out of the oven when their internal temperature read 160 degrees, then allowed them to cool slightly before removing them from the pan and chilling them overnight.

We tasted it, gave it a thumbs up, and served it to Sweetpea and Cooper for breakfast.

They loved it. I found the texture a bit spongy; next time, I would use less breadcrumb.

Calves’ Liver and Bacon

Chef: Nicolay Adinaguev ( Verde)

Dog: Moses, 12-year-old American pitbull terrier

The recipe was easy and quick to make. I was skeptical at first, but once Moses tried it, he actually asked for seconds. It must have been the carnivorous combination of bacon and liver, because Moses proceeded to lick the bowl clean after devouring it in seconds.

I usually like to feed Moses dry food mixed with something I’ve whipped up myself. This way, he gets the nutrients he needs for his overall health while also getting a scrumptious treat.

I would definitely make this again. It was relatively simple to create, and seeing him engulf the dish was great!

Pasta with Liver, Mushrooms and Cherry Tomatoes

Chef: Makoto Okuwa ( Makoto)

Dog: Miso, 1-year-old dachshund

Miso normally eats different meats (chicken, liver, beef) with vegetables. I also balance his diet with some dog food.

Miso is already a fan of liver, so there was no doubt that he would enjoy this dish. He was a little hesitant with the mushrooms, but in the end he ate them all. He wasn’t a big fan of the tomatoes.

I like that you can incorporate seasonal vegetables into the recipe, which means it can function as a variety of meals for Miso. I would make it again, especially since you can change up the recipe with different vegetables and liver flavors. Next time I’ll skip the tomatoes though.

Editor’s Note

All recipes here are adapted from a review copy of “Love Me, Feed Me” by Judith Jones. Some recipes may change in the book’s final edition, available Oct. 28.

Main dish

Braised Beef Shanks

4 hefty beef shanks, preferably grass-fed, about 3-inches thick

salt and freshly ground pepper

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 large onion, peeled and sliced

1 large garlic clove, smashed and peeled

handful of fresh Italian parsley

1 bay leaf

2 large carrots, peeled and cut into chunks

beef broth, as needed

Remove excess fat from shanks, and rub salt and pepper over all sides of them. Heat the oil in a heavy pot just large enough to accommodate the four shanks lying flat. Brown them on all sides; remove them to a plate while you brown the onion until limp and lightly browned. Return shanks to the pot. Scatter in the garlic, parsley, bay leaf and carrots, and cook over low heat for 1 1/2 hours or until meltingly tender. Serve.

Main dish

Ground Turkey ‘Paté’

1/3 cup fresh breadcrumbs

1/2 cup whole milk

1 1/2 cups ground turkey

1/2 beaten egg

salt and freshly ground pepper

pinch of curry powder

pinch of turmeric

2 teaspoons crushed dried mushrooms

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

butter for greasing pan

Soak the breadcrumbs in the milk; when breadcrumbs are moistened, squeeze out and discard any excess liquid. Add remaining ingredients except the butter to the breadcrumbs, using your hands to mix well. Generously butter a mini-meatloaf or bread pan, and add the turkey mixture to the pan. Bake in a 350-degree oven for 40 minutes. Let cool for at least 10 minutes before unmolding and serving.

Main dish

Calves’ Liver and Bacon

2 strips bacon

2 teaspoons butter

2 slices calves’ liver

flour for dredging

salt and freshly ground pepper

1 shallot, peeled and sliced thin (see note)

splash of red wine (see note)

Cook the bacon slowly in a skillet. When bacon is done, press out excess fat with a spatula and drain bacon on a paper towel. Pour off bacon fat and add butter to the skillet over medium-high heat. While butter is heating, dredge the liver in flour, and lightly salt and pepper the liver. Slip the liver into the pan. Cook about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes on each side, depending how thick the slices are (the interior should be rosy). Add the shallot, splash the wine into the pan, and cook down until syrupy. Pour sauce over the liver, and enjoy with crisp bacon.

Note: Skip the last two ingredients and final step for your dog, who should eat this dish without the shallot-wine reduction.

Main dish

Pasta with Liver, Mushrooms and Cherry Tomatoes

1 serving spaghetti or soba noodles

1 tablespoon olive oil, divided

2 chicken livers

1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped

6 cherry tomatoes, halved

4 medium mushrooms, quartered

salt and freshly ground pepper

3 tablespoons grated Parmesan

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, then stir in spaghetti or soba. Meanwhile, heat 2 teaspoons of olive oil in a medium skillet, and quickly sear the livers on both sides. Remove to a small dish and keep warm. Pour remaining oil into the skillet, and toss in the shallot, tomatoes and mushrooms. Sauté until the vegetables are just tender and the tomatoes have released their liquid. Return liver pieces to the pan, adding 1/3 cup of pasta water and salt and pepper to taste. When pasta is ready, drain and add to skillet, cooking everything together just long enough to blend the flavors, adding more liquid as needed. Remove from heat, stir in the grated cheese; serve.

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