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A FORK ON THE ROAD

Along the shore, a tasty boater's secret

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IF YOU GO

Place: Loggerhead Café in John U. Lloyd Beach State Park.

Address: 6503 N. Ocean Dr., Dania Beach.

Contact: 954-923-2833 or Bill Hansen (305-858-6660, 305-338-1897).

Hours: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily, including holidays.

Prices: Appetizers $3.95-$11.95, salads and sides $2.95-$5.95, burgers $7.95-$11.95.

lbladholm@MiamiHerald.com

Named for the threatened turtles that nest on the beach of John U. Lloyd State Park in Dania Beach, the al fresco Loggerhead Café overlooks scenic Whiskey Creek, an ice cube's toss from the ocean. Open every day of the year, it's a well-kept secret among boaters and divers who frequent the beachfront park, stopping in for a bite after a day on the water.

Opened 20 years ago as the Whiskey Creek Log Cabin, the cafe has been run for the past two years by caterer Bill Hansen. The Danish-American native of San Francisco has a hospitality degree from Cornell University and a master's from Florida International University, where he taught catering for 20 years.

The park was named for the late John U. Lloyd, Broward County's attorney for 30 years, who led efforts to preserve the first parcel of land that became the State Park in 1973. The 2 ˝-mile stretch of beach was part of the original route of the ``Barefoot Mailman'' who made the 66-mile trip between Hypoluxo and Miami in the late 19th century.

Whiskey Creek gets its name from its popularity with smugglers and bootleggers during Prohibition. Today, many boaters arrive via the mangrove-lined tidal waterway to eat lunch, especially on Sundays.

Folks come to dive at the coral reef just a hundred yards from the shoreline, swim and kayak, then grab a bite with a beer. The simple menu, with a nod to the Caribbean, is executed by chef Steve Mosely with assistance from son Richard.

Starters include spicy wings, smoky Bahamian conch chowder, bracing conch salad, smoked fish dip with crackers and blackened shrimp with mango sauce. Burgers range from the signature shredded lobster patty, half-pound beef, pulled pork, and mojo grilled chicken to garden vegetable and grilled or deep-fried mahi, served with waffle fries and coleslaw.

Kids can get small salads, mini burgers and snow cones. Grown-ups and kids alike will go for the house-made carrot cake and Key lime pie. A day on the water does work up the appetite!

Linda Bladholm's latest book is Latin and Caribbean Grocery Stores Demystified.

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