GETTING THERE

The drive from Rome takes about five hours; gas and rental car for six days cost a total of about $525. Alternatively, you can fly to Bari or Brindisi. The train services most major towns in the region.

GETTING AROUND

You will need a car to tour the area. A good map will get you from burg to burg, but once in towns, you'll either want a GPS or a good navigator. I often parked my car and walked until I could find my lodging.

CLIMATE

Edged by the sea, Puglia is relatively temperate throughout the year. In late February, I needed no more than a sweater by day until a cold snap hit and temps dropped to the 60s. Some attractions may be closed in winter, but crowds are non-existent and even at today's pocket-pounding exchange rate, prices are reasonable.

HIGHLIGHTS

Ah, so many! (Hint: They aren't found in the region's two biggest cities, Bari and Brindisi.)

• Coastal towns: Among the most charming are Trani, Polignano and Otranto.

• Valle d'Istria: The inland region around Locorotondo, Alberobello and Ostuni, home to the cone-topped houses.

• Baroque excess: In Lecce and Galatina

• Medieval walled hill town: Ostuni feels like Greece

• Castel del Monte: The mysterious eight-sided castle of Frederick II

• Grottaglie: A town devoted to ceramics, from the utilitarian to the fanciful.

• Matera: Though technically in the the region of Basilicata, Matera's caveside village is well worth the drive.

• Eating well: See food, below

WHERE TO STAY

B&BS: These are a friendly, inexpensive options; I paid less than $75 at today's exchange rate and arranged them in advance via e-mail; ask about current rates. Most require cash and feature stairs; don't expect the owner to speak English (though most can respond to an English-language e-mail). Be aware that the ''breakfast'' portion of the stay is a make-it-yourself coffee and packaged pastry. Buy matches; you may need them to light your gas ring. My two favorites, located through the Lonely Plant Guide to Puglia and Basilicata:

• Lecce: Bed Lecce turned out to be a delightful small apartment near the historic center. Had my 6-foot-3-inch husband been along, he would have complained about the low bathroom ceiling. www.bedlecce.com.

• Matera: My small apartment at B&B Capriotti sat in the shadow of the cathedral and overlooked the sassi -- cave dwellings; it also featured a private entrance. www.capriotti-bed-breakfast.it.

MASSERIAS: Several centuries-old fortressed farmhouses have been converted into small, delightful but simple hotels with terrific food. These three are near Fasano; each features a private beach a short walk or drive away.

• Masseria Torre Coccaro: We chose this member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World because its cooking school was recommended by Travel + Leisure magazine. The delightful room -- facing an olive grove -- featured a light, breezy decor both simple and sophisticated. The food was simply jaw-droppingly abundant, fresh and fabulous, thanks to the culinary passion of owner Vittorio Muolo, a trove of recommendations about regional restaurants, markets and cheesemakers. The beach club lies a couple of miles away; bicycles are provided. Facilities include an infinity-edge pool and full-service spa. Fall special, $167 per person per night, double occupancy, including breakfast, minimum three-night stay. E-mail for current rates. www.apuliacollection.com.

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