BEIJING -- The taxi drops me off at the wrong door, at a youth hostel along a cramped lane lined with historic brick courtyard houses with tile roofs that slope like a dragon's spine. The hostel staff drags my stuffed bags inside -- the bounty of China's irresistible addiction, Too Much Shopping -- before I can make them understand that I'm looking for Red Capital, a dinner club and boutique hotel tucked somewhere in this warren.

They summon a staffer who speaks a bit of English. ''Red Capital, yes, yes!'' says the young woman, smiling, as she grabs one of my bags. ''It is close!'' Several others pitch in, hoisting the rest of luggage; we head down the street.

Do they have any idea where I want to go? But sure enough, a few steps later, they're knocking against a red lacquered door.

''Bye!'' they wave, smiling. No one puts out a hand for a tip.

Such generous spirits, friendly helpfulness and, yes, confusion, are common experiences for visitors to China, and sure to greet travelers who come here next year for the Summer Olympics, which begin on the auspicious date of 8-08-08.

The sprawling city aims to wow. The Forbidden City palace-museum is getting a face lift; several sections currently cloaked in green construction screens will be unveiled by next summer. Streets are flawlessly clean, and public spitting and belching -- once common here -- are actively discouraged. Many of the city's 11 new Olympic venues already are open, and the startling Bird's Nest, as locals have dubbed the steel basket-weave stadium that will host opening and closing ceremonies, is on track for completion in March.

The nonstop construction of the past decade has wrought a massive modern metropolis dotted with gleaming curves and angles and space-age spires -- when you can see them through the smog.

Smog and I-95-style traffic are two of Beijing's toughest challenges. Local officials have plans to minimize both. Rains and seasonal dust from Mongolia typically calm by August, say local officials. In addition, some factories are being relocated to other parts of the country, and those remaining will likely be shut for weeks prior to the games.

Four new subway lines will be opened before the Olympics begin and special lanes will be set aside for Olympic traffic, says spokesman Sun Weide. Buses will offer transportation from central city locations to the Olympic Green complex of stadiums and athletes' housing at the northern edge of town. The government is considering a ban on trucks and many private cars during the games.

The Olympics are China's red carpet premiere -- a dazzling extravaganza with Beijing as superstar. Putting on first-rate Games with a Chinese twist is both a matter of national pride and global positioning. ''We have a chance to show the rest of the world our culture and civilization,'' says Sun.

Hotel rooms have been upgraded and added; a new airport terminal will be unveiled. More than 500,000 foreign visitors are expected for the games; an estimated four billion will watch on TV. Ticket sales so far have exceeded expectations.

GREAT BARGAIN

Already, a year in advance, tourist sites are packed. Visits by Americans are up about a third this year over last -- partly because of buzz, and partly because of value. China is one of the world's great bargains, with a two-week tour including airfare from the West Coast and lodging in American-style hotels starting around $2,000.

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