Once upon a time, there were three tofu dogs -- The Good Dog ($3.99 per 12-ounce package), the Smart Dog ($4.29) and the Tofu Pup ($3.49).

These meatless franks were made from soy isolates, a pure form of soy, and lived in the refrigerator case of the market. They offered at least 8 protein grams apiece -- more than their meaty counterparts -- contained no nitrites and sat lighter in the stomach.

The tofu dogs all tasted pretty much like the meat dogs they mocked. They used beet powder to give themselves that ruddy, beefy appearance -- a successful ploy except for the Tofu Pups, which had the unnatural orange hue of Malibu Barbie.

The Good Dog had 70 calories, but he was salty, with 430 milligrams sodium. He was more octagonal than tubular, which made him grill-friendly, but easy to spot as a faux dog. He had a trace of dairy and could boast vitamin B-12.

Fat-free, vegan, Smart Dog had only 45 calories and 320 milligrams sodium. Like The Good Dog, he grilled up beautifully in minutes.

The 60-calorie Tofu Pup had only 300 milligrams sodium. Alas, the vegan Pup didn't get pretty grill stripes; he just blistered. Bad dog.

(One tip: The casings on any cooling tofu dog will toughen and the filling thicken, so get `em while they're hot.)

Which won Best in Show? Smart Dog nosed out the others for taste and texture, but my own dog, usually indifferent to Edgy Veggie research, loved `em all. Chances are, you will, too.

Ellen Kanner writes biweekly about vegetarian concerns.

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