If you thought chocolate topped the hit parade, you would be wrong. It's vanilla that is America's No. 1 flavor. And it's far from ``plain vanilla.''

The flavoring is derived from the cured beans (seed pods) of a climbing vine in the orchid family. Native to Mexico, it is also grown in Indonesia, Madagascar and Tahiti. It is one of the world's most labor-intensive and expensive crops because every flower must be hand-pollinated on the one day a year that it blooms.

Vanilla can stand alone or be used to boost the flavor of other ingredients, especially eggs, dairy products, sugar and chocolate. Though usually thought of with desserts, vanilla is also a complement to seafood, veal and poultry dishes.

Here are pointers for using vanilla in its various forms.

VANILLA BEANS

These are the dried, fermented pods of the vanilla orchid. The cured pods or beans should be pliable, moist and plump. Beans that are hard, shriveled and lusterless will also lack flavor and aroma. The beans can be used whole, or split to release the flavored seeds. They should be stored in an airtight container in a dark place.

• Thrift tip: Vanilla beans are expensive, but they're powerful and you can use them several times before discarding them. Or dry them for several days and pulverize them with granulated sugar in a food processor, strain to remove large pieces of the pod and use as a vanilla-scented sweetener.

VANILLA SEEDS

It is in the seeds that much of the vanilla flavor is located. To remove them, slice the bean lengthwise with a sharp knife and scrape out the seeds with the back of the knife.

VANILLA EXTRACT

Vanilla beans impart the truest flavor, but pure vanilla extract is often a useful substitute. When substituting extract for beans, add it toward the end of the cooking process or increase the quantity to compensate for the diminished flavor. The rule of thumb is one teaspoon of extract equals a two-inch piece of bean.

• Shopping tip: When buying vanilla extract, make sure the label says ''pure.'' Imitation vanilla is a synthetic product with inferior flavor.

• Make your own: Place two split vanilla beans in a glass bottle or jar; add one cup unflavored vodka. Seal and store in a dark, cool place. Shake the bottle gently every couple weeks. After about two months, you'll have homemade vanilla extract -- a lovely gift.

Carole Kotkin is manager of the Ocean Reef Club cooking school and co-author of Mmmmiami: Tempting Tropical Tastes for Home Cooks Everywhere.

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