Nothing's more refreshing in the heat of summer than sorbet, and homemade is, as always, fresher and more flavorful than store-bought. An array of glorious-tasting, fruit-flavored sorbets could become your signature dessert.

Sorbet is the French word for sherbet; Italians call it sorbetto or Italian ice. This simple combination of fruit, sugar syrup and perhaps a flavoring such as citrus, mint or liqueur is fat-free and relatively low-calorie.

A food processor or blender and an ice cream machine (electric or hand-turned) is all the equipment you need. The other requirement is great-tasting fruit at its peak. Sugar and flavorings can't do much to improve subpar specimens.

Here are tips:

• Sugar syrup (just sugar and water cooked together) not only sweetens the sorbet but prevents it from freezing rock solid. It's essential for a smooth texture, so don't cut back on the amount.

• Lemon, lime and orange are the easiest flavors to make because you can simply use their juice. The ratio is 1 cup juice, 1 cup water and 1 1/3 cups simple syrup.

• Rum or liqueur is a fine enhancement, but don't add more than a couple of tablespoons or it will overpower the fruit flavor and slow the freezing process.

• Sorbet will freeze faster if you chill the fruit puree and syrup first.

• Sorbets are best served the day they are made. Flavors tend to fade and the texture coarsens after about 24 hours.

• Take a tip from upscale restaurants and make three flavors. Then mix and match scoops on chilled dessert plates and garnish with berries or fruit slices and a drizzle of raspberry or strawberry puree.

Carole Kotkin is manager of the Ocean Reef Club cooking school and co-author of Mmmmiami: Tempting Tropical Tastes for Home Cooks Everywhere.

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