To the uninitiated, spiky artichokes with their fuzzy chokes may seem like more trouble than they are worth. Artichoke lovers know differently.

The choke sits atop a meaty heart that is considered a delicacy. The surrounding leaves also contain a small amount of flesh. The best way to prepare and present artichokes is the simplest: steamed or boiled and with a simple dip like melted butter.

TIPS

• When buying fresh artichokes, look for compact globes, heavy for their size, that yield slightly to pressure and have large, tightly clinging leaves.

• Artichoke size has nothing to do with maturity or eating quality. Large and medium-size are best boiled or steamed and eaten leaf by leaf or stuffed. Small ones are best for marinating or for use in stews and casseroles.

• Artichokes will keep four to five days in the refrigerator crisper.

• Use stainless steel or other non-reactive knives and cooking utensils for artichokes; cast-iron or aluminum will turn them black.

PREPPING

• Cut the artichoke stem even with the base so it stands up.

• Peel and reserve the stem to cook with artichokes.

• Snap off the outer layer of tough bottom leaves and use kitchen shears to remove the prickly tops from remaining leaves.

• Place in a bowl of cold water aciduated with lemon or lime juice to prevent browning.

COOKING

• Steaming: Place prepared artichokes on a rack above boiling water; cover and steam for 25 to 40 minutes, depending on size, or until a petal near the center pulls out easily.

• Boiling: Stand prepared artichokes in a pot with 3 inches water with lemon juice; cover and boil gently for 25 to 40 minutes, until it tests done as described above. Stand artichoke upside down to drain.

• Eating: Just pull off the leaves one at a time, dip into butter our sauce and pull through your teeth to scrape off the edible flesh. When the leaves are gone, eat the tender, meaty heart.

Carole Kotkin is manager of the Ocean Reef Club cooking school and co-author of Mmmmiami: Tempting Tropical Tastes for Home Cooks Everywhere.

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