This light meat preparation, with its modicum of fat, slight acidity (from the vinegar and fresh peppers) and wide-open flavors of herbs and aromatics, would be well served by lighter bodied but flavorful reds.
Hewing to the idea that “if it grows together, it goes together,” a dry rosé from Provence would of course be a delight as well.
Most light- or medium-bodied red wines, coming as they generally do from cooler climates, sport good acidity, which is necessary for cleanup and refreshment, something more serious reds from warmer climates by and large cannot do.
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Provençal Veal Chops with Bell-Pepper Slaw
Mix 3 tablespoons herbes de Provence, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 tablespoon sherry wine vinegar, 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste in a bowl. Add 4 veal chops, turning to coat sides.
Heat a large skillet over high heat; add the chops, reserving the marinade. Brown both sides, about 2 minutes per side. Turn heat to low; cook until desired doneness, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a platter.
Add 3 bell peppers, cut into thin strips, and 3 cloves garlic, minced, to skillet. Stir-fry over high heat until peppers are crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Add reserved marinade; stir-fry 1 minute. Spoon peppers over veal chops. Makes 4 servings
Naoussa, Greece: Xinomavro is an indigenous Greek grape that’s much like Italy’s nebbiolo: medium-hued, good acidity, lots of tannin. This young-vines version accentuates fruit and freshness. $16.
Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, France: A delicious pale-pink blend of four Provencal grapes with scents of watermelon agua fresca and orange rind; lots of minerals in the dry, flashy finish. $16-$18.
•2010 Robert Ramsay Cellars Mourvedre,
Horse Heaven Hills, Wash.: A light-hued mourvedre, but no stinting on aroma or flavor of black fruit, game blood, smoke and spice; super incisive for a red. $35.