Regulars at Hollywood's cozy Coral Rose Café have seen it change hands three times in 20 years. That accounts for an eclectic breakfast and lunch menu that offers not only three-egg omelets and buttermilk pancakes but nachos and quesadillas plus gyros, falafel and Greek spinach pie.

The current owners, Jack and Lidiya Umansky, are originally from Ukraine. They operated a gas station and Russian nightclub in Philadelphia for two decades before relocating to South Florida six years ago.

The Umanskys kept the menu and long-time staffer Theresa Low, who does all the baking. Soon after you're seated, you can expect a complimentary basket of her whole wheat and fruit bread with a jar of house-made jam.

The café looks like a Colorado transplant, with knotty pine paneling and gauzy, rose-patterned curtains. Paddle fans barely move the languid air (they seldom turn on the air conditioning), but that doesn't keep away the weekend breakfast crowd. The servers, mostly Ukranian, keep the coffee refills flowing.

The two-egg specials with home fries and choice of sausage, bacon, pancakes or toast won't set you back more than $4. (Coffee is extra.) There's a quiche of the day plus create-your-own eggs Benedict with options like smoked salmon, portobello mushroom, seafood or spinach.

Or try the buttermilk pancakes embedded with pecans or fresh apple slices; strawberry waffles; thick, eggy French toast encrusted with coconut shreds or crushed pistachios; granola and yogurt; fresh-baked cinnamon rolls or huevos rancheros with chorizo.

One of the most interesting omelets is the tabbouleh, enfolding cracked wheat, fresh herbs, onion and diced tomato. The Kaplan, named for a former customer, has spinach and good-quality feta. The fajita omelet has grilled chicken strips with peppers, onions and sour cream. All are big enough to share unless your appetite is huge.

Lunch specials might include a monster chicken burger with potatoes or salad, an eight-ounce steak with mashed potatoes and gravy, grilled tilapia fillet with brown rice or a vegetarian wrap with hummus and sprouts.

There's no sushi or cutting edge fusion fare here, just Paul Bunyan-sized breakfasts and good home-cooked food in a pleasant spot that marches along to its own quaint beat.

Linda Bladholm's latest book is Latin and Caribbean Grocery Stores Demystified.

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