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A FORK ON THE ROAD

Couple returns to Jamaican roots at Jamrock

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IF YOU GO

Place: Jamrock Jamaican Chinese Cuisine.

Address: 12618 N. Kendall Dr., Miami.

Contact: 305-598-7625.

Hours: 10:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 10 a.m.- 3 p.m. Sunday.

Prices: Soups $4.25-$10, jerk dishes $6.50-$9.75, stews and curries $6.50-$12.50, Chinese specialties $8.75-$9.50, desserts $1.75-$3.

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lbladholm@MiamiHerald.com

In a drive from Kingston through the mountains to Negril on the west coast of Jamaica, I stopped to buy ``peppa'' shrimp along the roadside and fell in love with the hot, salty crustaceans. I recently rediscovered pepper shrimp at Jamrock, a 6-month-old Jamaican place in Kendall in the old Island Delight space.

Marcia and Marice ``Sonny'' Chang, who took over when the previous owners retired, still stock Caribbean essentials such as fresh callaloo leaves (shaped like elephant ears); fiery Scotch bonnet peppers; whole, brain-like breadfruit; boned cod; jerk sauce; sparkling cucumber juice and the firecracker shrimp, perfect as a snack with a Red Stripe beer.

The Changs operated a bakery in the hills above Mandeville in Marice's hometown of Christiana in Manchester Parish, an expansion of the business his father started after fleeing China when Mao came into power. After they relocated to Miami in 1979, Marcia went into insurance while Sonny owned a gas station and worked a string of baking-related jobs.

When Marcia got laid off last year, they decided to return to their professional roots with the help of daughter Shereena, who waits tables and works the cash register. Son Andre helped renovate the space, and younger daughter Shani comes down from Orlando from time to time to give her parents a break.

Folks come for a fix of ackee and salt cod and mackerel rundown (in a thick coconut custard) for Sunday brunch with ``food,'' the starches that surround a main dish here including dumplings, boiled green banana and yam -- both the white Ghana type that tastes like potato and the softer yellow Guinea kind.

Most plates also have the cornmeal and flour fritters called festival and fried sweet plantain strips. Of course there's jerk chicken and pork plus jerk chicken pasta (spaghetti in lemon Parmesan sauce with tomatoes), oxtail stew, goat curry and Chinese-Jamaican delights like choy fan (roast pork and chicken with egg roll and rice), pork mook nee (with ``bat ear'' seaweed) and chicken dun goo (with shiitake mushrooms).

If you have room, end with sweet potato pudding or rum cake, mon. This is the real deal.

Linda Bladholm's latest book is Latin and Caribbean Grocery Stores Demystified.

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