The Dadeland Plaza Mall on South Dixie Highway in Pinecrest looks like the usual jumble of strip shops. But tucked between For Eyes and Muscle Max is a world of restaurants stretching from Asia (Japan and Vietnam) to Brooklyn (Roasters 'n Toasters). We opted for three European menus and found ourselves transported -- without the flight or exchange rate.

TRATTORIA LUNA

This has the feel of a neighborhood eatery in Rome plunked down a few thousand miles off course. Wood-trimmed, honey-color walls and a mural of Lake Como behind a faux balustrade made us forget we were in a strip center. The tablecloths are fresh and white, the friendly wait staff actually Italian and the crowd decidedly local.

A bottle of lusty red wine and a complimentary plate of bruschetta awaited when I joined two friends. They started with minestrone (pronounced ``ummm''), one ordered a grouper special (egg-washed, sautéed to a perfect light finish and ``excellent'') and the other fettuccine Alfredo with seafood (finished to the last morsel). I started with a half-order of tre colore salad (fresh and crisp) and veal piccata from the regular menu (tender and slightly tangy, just as it should be).

At $20 and up, most entrees pushed the price limit for a neighborhood meal, but portions were more than adequate. And because the fish and meat plates came with potatoes, broccoli and carrots, we could easily have filled up without the starters.

The later the hour got, the louder the restaurant became. We vowed to return -- but earlier in the evening.

Trattoria Luna, 9477 S. Dixie Hwy., Pinecrest; 305-669-9448, www.trattorialuna.com; lunch Monday-Friday, dinner nightly.

BISTRO BISOU

This isn't the clubby, smoky, bistro of a historic neighborhood but a fresh space you'd find on the edge of a small French town. Specials chalked onto the blackboard and the cheery French staff made us feel like we'd crossed the ocean. The food confirmed it.

It was on the late side, so we weren't surprised that some of the specials weren't available. I'd set my heart on moules frites, but the mussels were sold out. Escargot tempted, as did foie gras, but paired with a main dish -- most start around $20 -- it would kill the budget.

Instead, our foursome shared a starter plate of country pté that was decidedly house-made and rimmed with cornichons. Next came our entrees -- generous portions that were meal aplenty. My companions declared themselves more than satisfied with their choices: shrimp ravioli in a light, creamy sauce, steak frites and a warm duck salad. My own beef bourguignon had clearly spent the day simmering in pinot noir, and turned out to be the perfect antidote to a drizzling night. Another winner.

Bistro Bisou, 9519 S. Dixie Hwy., Pinecrest; 786-268-0178, www.bistrobisou.net; lunch Monday-Saturday, dinner nightly.

RINCON ESPAÑOL

Given our city's heritage, you'd expect traditional Spanish dishes to be commonplace, but the last time I'd had an authentic selection of tapas was, oddly, in Iceland.

Rincon Español certainly looks the part: stamped wooden lids from wine boxes hang on one rustic wall and wooden window shutters are built onto another. Wooden chairs with leather seats line the tables -- many set for family groups that were obviously regulars.

We arrived on a Saturday night without a reservation and were lucky to snag a table. As at the other eateries in this center, the prices for entrees started near $20. Instead, we went for a selection of tapas.

With six dishes for two of us, we'd over-ordered. The food was so tasty we ate it all anyway: top-quality serrano ham with manchego cheese, pickled asparagus salad, beef tenderloin strips with onions, clams in white sauce, shrimp with loads of fresh garlic, chorizo in wine.

The tab would have hovered around $50 if we hadn't ordered two glasses of crianza -- well worth the $8 each. Best, though, were the welcoming servers, who made us feel truly valued.

Rincon Español, 9511 S. Dixie Hwy., Pinecrest; 305-740-5858; lunch and dinner daily.

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