Lots of people assume Miami is a health-conscious town -- a Southeast version of L.A., perhaps. Maybe it's all the beautiful bodies and sunshine. The truth is, that when it comes to dining out, we've got more deep-fried, porky, processed and syrup-laden food than nearly any city I know.

It used to be the Hare Krishna temple in Coconut Grove was the only place to find vegan cuisine. Happily, healthful eateries from Fort Lauderdale's upscale Sublime to Miami's laid-back Om Garden have taken meat-free to a new level.

Located in a sprout-sized former diner in The Roads neighborhood, Om can be tough to find. And once you get there, it can be tough to find a seat in one of the 16 chairs and half-dozen bar stools.

Best described as health-food-store chic, the decor features a spring-green wall hung with colorful, swirly paintings that evoke sprites and wood fairies. Piles of papers and a stack of unwashed mugs on one table suggest the staff is more intent on socializing with the many regulars than keeping the place pristine.

The atmosphere may be a bit divey, but the food is fresh and vibrant. A deli case offers prepared salads, including a faux pasta made of strips of zucchini in a rich sauce of ground nuts.

Starters include the Big Dipper trio of rough-cut guacamole, zesty black bean dip and a chunky chickpea hummus. The chewy flax and beet ``crackers'' -- uncooked like much of the food here -- take some getting used to, but serve their purpose well.

The soup on our first visit was a hearty red lentil puree with big, soft cubes of fresh-cut vegetables that had my 9-year-old scooping up the last smidgeon with her fingers.

From the raw entrees, we adored the nori rolls. One of the best is the so-called rainbow roll combining dried figs, sweet mango, shredded carrot and avocado in a sushi-like roll with a swath of creamy cashew pate and a zippy carrot-ginger dipping sauce.

Recommendable cooked entrees include the grain-based Happy Cow burger on the thinnest whole-wheat pita ever, deliciously accessorized with tahini sauce and a bountiful fresh salad. ``Pizzas'' are made on the same skinny pitas, among the few foods here that contain wheat or gluten.

Don't expect a finely tuned restaurant experience. Our waitress was attentive but slow, and many menu items were unavailable, including all but one of the desserts. Still, our sweet teeth were satisfied by a creamy, raspberry ``cheesecake.'' The nut crust was soggy, but a topping of grated orange zest gave the dairy-free dessert a nice kick.

Ingredients are nearly all organic, a fact reflected in prices for items like the $10 smoothies.

Sure, I like a good porterhouse and a shot of foie gras, but give me some raw and vegan dishes every so often and I feel like chanting. Om.

Victoria Pesce Elliott reviews Miami-Dade restaurants. E-mail her at velliott@MiamiHerald.com.

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