The light, fragrant, healthful cuisine of Vietnam is perfect for South Florida, yet we're only beginning to embrace it. The love affair is bound to heat up with the opening of Basilic Vietnamese Grill in Lauderdale-by-the-Sea, likely the only spot east of U.S. 441 specializing in dishes like pho, shaking beef and Vietnamese crepes.

Open two months, Basilic offers a large, intriguing menu that's exotic without being intimidating. Young, friendly American servers make the timid feel at ease. A few items are tweaked for the masses -- the banh mi (sub sandwich), for example, replaces classic ptés and hams with grilled chicken, beef or meatballs -- but the food is delicious and affordable.

Another value: $3-$4 beers, including China's Tsingtao and Thai's singha and wines mostly $17-$30 by the bottle and under $10 by the glass.

The restaurant's name -- French for basil -- reflects that influence on Vietnam, but the decor is spare and hip with bamboo accents, trickling water and apple green lamps. The 49-seat dining room is already packed on weekends.

Chef Luc Ho prepares plenty of authentic fare with an assist from the owners, brothers Vince, Chuck and John Vu.

Start with puffy shrimp chips served with a kicky chile sauce with lemongrass, fiery sriracha chile sauce and hoisin. Save room for starters such as pan-fried crepes stuffed with shrimp, sliced pork loin, bean sprouts and onions, spiked with summery mint and cilantro. Most dishes are served with nuac cham, a blend of fish sauce, vinegar, chiles and other seasonings.

Dip lightly battered calamari and shrimp in sriracha or savor it with just a squeeze of lemon. The shellfish is scrumptious, crisp on the outside, juicy inside, plated with strips of red and green peppers, onions and fresh ginger.

A special starter of three small quail was sensational, marinated in oyster sauce and deep-fried.

The refreshing papaya salad in a sweet vinegar dressing is topped with grilled shrimp and peanuts. Traditional rice paper rolls wrapped around steamed shrimp, grilled pork, noodles, shredded lettuce and cucumber are also clean and light.

The most authentic of Basilic's takes on the Vietnamese soup pho is the rare beef combination in which steaming stock is poured over noodles and rare steak, cooking the meat just as the huge bowl arrives at your table. You add Thai basil, bean sprouts and sauces as you wish, making every bite an adventure. The chef also serves a flavorful chicken pho (cooked in the soup or grilled).

Hanoi-style vermicelli was a delicious entree of shrimp, pork, noodles and veggies. The rave-worthy pork chop is marinated in a garlic-oyster sauce and served with white rice, lettuce and, our only quibble, anemic tomatoes. Chicken curry is a luxurious medley of boneless meat, sweet and white potatoes in a green curry sauce with a bit of coconut milk.

Desserts include a decent coconut cre`me caramel flan and decadent fried bananas wrapped in rice paper, served atop pineapple-studded ice cream with a garnish of peanuts and caramel. Refreshing and delightful -- like Basilic.

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