• EAT: The thought of eating at Benihana is appetizing, for sure. The smells and sights of onions, veggies and meats sizzling and flying off the open flame of the teppanyaki grills can really get your motor running.

But such a production. What if you want a nice, steaming plate of teriyaki without all the fanfare?

Get yourself over to One Sumo. It's a new Japanese joint on the Upper East Side that's all about the meat and heat. As in -- they serve nothing raw -- NO SUSHI. Don't bother looking for anything fried, either -- sayonara, tempura.

The menu is on the dainty side, which makes for simple ordering. They offer just six teriyaki combos and three entrees, though they were out of one (the skirt steak) on our recent visit. The meals are recession friendly, starting at just $4.49.

The classic chicken teriyaki -- aromatic in a sweet, garlicky sauce over gummy in a good way rice and crunchy carrots, broccoli and onions -- was so plentiful, the Styrofoam container was bursting. The meal served as a dinner for two and a midday snack the following day.

The steak and shrimp combo was fine -- the small shrimp popped in the mouth; the beef was marinated and tender.

We didn't have such great luck with the salmon teriyaki -- a thick slab of fish with an unappetizing dark skin. For that, I'll wait for Benihana. The bourbon chicken was another non-hit, with an unfortunately gritty texture.

A strange twist: Turn the menu over and One Sumo carries a huge selection of smoothies. They boast sugar-free ''performance'' shakes made with ''It'' fruits like acai, low glycemic ones with flax seed oil and whey protein and high-carb boosters for bodybuilders.

Puzzling, but I have to say, The Cookie Monster -- blended with Oreos, Ghirardelli chocolate and organic soy milk -- made a great dessert.

• DRINK: Sake it to me!

• WATCH: Bypass the obvious American fish-out-of-water story in Japan, Lost in Translation, for a truly chilling thriller, Black Rain, with Michael Douglas and Andy Garcia, directed by Ridley Scott.

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