La Cofradia, a classy Coral Gables Peruvian, closed for renovations earlier this year and reopened with a more casual, affordable concept and a new name, La Cofradia Ceviche Bar. The redo includes a new bar with high-top tables and stools perfect for sipping cocktails while sampling the restaurant's namesake marinated raw-fish dishes.

There's a renewed emphasis on ceviches and tiraditos ($13-$15), but other traditional Peruvian dishes are also available (starters about $12, mains $17-$26). Lima-born chef Jean Paul Desmaison fuses his Peruvian heritage with Italian influences in dishes like ricotta tortelloni in huancaina sauce (cheese sauce spiked with yellow chiles).

Ceviches include tuna in Oriental sauce and diced corvina, scallops and octopus ''leche de tigre'' (a fiery mix of lime, chile, celery and garlic).

Follow that with the restaurant's signature slow-braised pork and grapes or beef tenderloin saltado (stir-fry) over Parmesan risotto. For something lighter, opt for seared tuna with silky butternut squash puree.

Desserts include a lucuma mousse, made with a delicately flavored Peruvian fruit, and alfajores, buttery sandwich cookies filled with dulce de leche. the the the the the the the the the the the the

-- SARA LISS

www.miami.com

Address: 160 Andalusia Ave., Coral Gables.

Contact: 305-914-1300.

FYI: Happy hour 4:30-7:30 p.m. Tuesday-Friday with $5 small plates and $7 wine, beer and cocktails including pisco sours.

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