Miami is having a French moment. And nowhere is it more authentic than on the tip of South Beach at the new Au Pied de Cochon. After opening in late May it kept the same hours as a hospital emergency room -- around the clock. But, sadly, after some wrangling with the city over liquor licenses it has scaled back to just lunch and dinner.

Too bad because the pain au chocolate and croissant were simply fantastic when the sun was just coming up. And at 3 a.m. nothing is better than a pile of its supremely garlicky escargot and steamy fries.

Though a fine French bistro on its own, the round-the-clock roster made it uniquely divine.

Those who know the Paris original will appreciate the whimsical design of the 6,000-square-foot complex inside the 1938 Henry Hohauser-designed Deco classic. It has been done up in swirly art nouveau style with jangly crystal and brass chandeliers and loads of shimmery marble.

The concept started back in 1947 when pork butcher Clemént Blanc wanted to create a place to feed his hungry staffers when they came off their early shifts in the old Les Halles market. It soon became the in spot for artists, actors, socialites and writers in a way only a French employee canteen could.

All the restaurants -- Mexico City, Atlanta -- sport the same whimsical theme, namesake pigs' feet frolicking with maidens in the wall murals and as vases holding fresh flowers. Depending on one's taste, the décor can either be over the top or just fun.

There is no argument about the food. The menu is as vast as the space. French brasserie standards include onion soup gratinée, moules marinieres, escargots de Bourgogne, pan-fried foie gras with apples, steak tartare prepared tableside and steak frite, as well as golden, crusty and utterly transporting breads.

Formally trained waiters in ankle-skimming black aprons are happy to suggest dishes, replace a dropped Cristofle knife or refill a Riedel glass.

Seemingly simple salads benefit from the alchemy that appears to transform greens touched by French chefs into treasures.

A towering platter from the raw bar is an awe-inspiring selection of fresh-shucked oysters alongside piles of crab, lobster, prawns, mussels and more.

Fish choices are super simple. A succulent pan-seared red snapper with tangy pesto, gently carved potato and an earthy black-olive puree scores, as does the jewel-like salmon over warm lentils in a sweet balsamic glaze. Deconstructed bouillabaisse with plump mussels and shrimp in an aromatic broth with long paddles of aioli-slathered croutons makes a delightfully satisfying dinner.

A superb bone-in rib-eye drips salty, minerally juices from its pink center when served alongside steaming frites as thin as matchsticks. As good is the divinely crisped duck confit.

Executive chef Didier Lailheugue can certainly cook. There are a few flops, including, ironically, the restaurant's namesake dish -- the heavily breaded and overcooked roasted pig's trotter and braised veal cheeks in a red wine sauce as sweet as dessert.

The extensive Franco-centric wine list and expert sommelier service atone for any gaffes. In addition to more than 1,000 bottles expertly described and annotated with hand-drawn maps of the world's best winemaking regions, there's also a great variety by the glass, including a classic Provençal rose for only $7, and hard-to-find bottles from Bordeaux and Burgundy with mark-ups, in some cases, of less than double.

Desserts are as sweet and French as a double-cheek air kiss. The ``La Vie en Rose'' features raspberry sorbet, hibiscus gelatin and loads of fresh raspberries arranged in an oversized martini glass, while a meltingly rich nougat-and-praline layered cake makes a sort of artisanal Kit-Kat Bar. And, of course, the soufflés! Who can resist that classic puff of magically sweet air?

From start to finish, Au Pied will have this very hungry little piggy coming back for more.

Victoria Pesce Elliott reviews Miami-Dade restaurants. E-mail her at velliott@MiamiHerald.com.