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MIAMI-DADE ROUNDUP

Chic to cheap, Latin American style

 

A casual setting and late-night hours beckon diners to Decadencia Bistro.
A casual setting and late-night hours beckon diners to Decadencia Bistro.
PEDRO PORTAL / EL NUEVO HERALD

jlevin@MiamiHerald.com

South Florida is one of the best places in the country to enjoy the many facets of Latin food. Here are three divergent takes:

DECADENCIA

This tiny Coral Way bistro attracts a crowd of Latino artists, film people and bohemians at lunch and dinner with inventive versions of Spanish and Latin American tapas, a diverse wine selection -- and by staying open till 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

You'll have to order carefully to keep dinner costs low, but the creative food and lively ambience make it a worthwhile stop. Shiny metal tables and chairs and bright, '70s-chic colors make for an open and casual setting.

Tapas include black bean hummus that sets an intriguing peppery bite against a bit of sweet raspberry sauce; light, cheesy croquettes; tortilla (Spanish omelet) teeming with freshly cooked veggies, and eggplant slices topped with shrimp or chicken and melted cheese.

Entrees (with one side) include tender bacalao (dried cod) in a flavorful, tomato-onion-pepper sauce and grouper in a white wine reduction. Black rice with calamari, shrimps and clams for two sounded intriguing, but we didn't have the extra 35 to 40 minutes to wait.

Decadencia Bistro & Café, 1401 Coral Way, Miami; 305-603-7412, www.decadenciabistro.com; tapas $4.50-$12.50, sandwiches $8.50, main plates $12.50-$28.50 (black rice for two), desserts $2.50-$7; wine and beer.

FISH CORNER

Just up Northeast Second Avenue from Churchill's Pub in Little Haiti, this bare-bones spot specializes in deliciously fresh fish. There's nothing exotic about the preparation, but that just-caught quality makes even simple fried or grilled fish delectable.

The rest of the menu is standard but especially tasty, too: giant tostones were tender, black beans had real flavor, french fries were hand cut and freshly cooked, bacalao and cheese croquettes melted in our mouths and flan was scrumptiously creamy.

Decor is almost nonexistent, with stools at an outdoor counter and a few tables inside, but at $6 for a fish sandwich and $10-$12 for fish plates, you don't come for the atmosphere. Beer is an affordable $2 to $3. You'll have to go for breakfast or lunch to enjoy it, however; Fish Corner is open 7:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday to Thursday and Saturday and until 4:30 p.m. Friday.

Fish Corner, 5555 NE Second Ave., Miami; 305-757-5056; sandwiches $4-$6.95, fish dinners $9.75-$15.99; beer and wine.

LA MOON

This friendly Colombian joint, half neighborhood restaurant, half late night hangout, is the last stop for hungry Little Havana and Brickell Village clubgoers in need of sustenance at the end of a long night. Strategically located between these two nightlife centers, La Moon is open till 6 a.m. Thursday through Saturday, but its low prices and tasty, substantial food also attract young Latino families earlier in the evening and office workers at lunchtime.

For that hangover-taming 5 a.m. refill, there are a variety of Colombian arepas or corn pancakes (the crispy, savory variety, not the soft, sweet kind sold at street festivals). They're filled with cheese, to which you can add chicken, ham, sausage, bacon, even blood sausage or chicarrones (fried pork rind). Top your perros Colombianos (Colombian hot dogs) with sausage, quail egg or cheese and your choice of five sauces.

There are generous plates of grilled beef and pork, including the unofficial national dish, bandeja paisa, with rice, red beans, grilled steak, plantains, sausage and more. You can get a whole fried fish with rice, beans, salad and plantains or more urban offerings like pan-seared salmon with mango salsa or crusted sesame tuna.

Cut the grease with a batidos, a fresh fruit shake with or without milk, whether mango or more exotic moro or guava.

La Moon, 144 SW Eighth St., Miami; 305-860-6209; arepas $4.50-$7.50, hot dogs $4.35-$6.50, appetizers $1.25-$8.95, meat plates $10.95-$13.95, fish and seafood $11.25-$13.95.

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