BROWARD ROUNDUP

Strip-mall eateries that aren't stripped of creativity

ewalker@MiamiHerald.com

Bistro 555 executive chef Alessandro Manzini, a native of Parma, Italy, presents his 
filet mignon, clockwise from left, seafood linguine and Chilean sea bass. A plate of bruschetta and foccacia is in the foreground.
MARSHA HALPER / MIAMI HERALD STAFF
Bistro 555 executive chef Alessandro Manzini, a native of Parma, Italy, presents his filet mignon, clockwise from left, seafood linguine and Chilean sea bass. A plate of bruschetta and foccacia is in the foreground.

IF YOU GO
• Mezes, 10040 Pines Blvd., Pembroke Pines: Mezes $4-$13, souvlakis $8-$9, entrees $12-$22; wine and beer only; 954-430-1725, mezestaverna.com.

Tired of the same old chains that dominate West Broward strip shopping centers, we went on a hunt for new and creative independents. Even in today's tough economy, we found several restaurants trying to carve out niches in the marketplace.

BISTRO 555

Located in the shopping center adjacent to Muvico Paradise in Davie, Bistro 555 is the perfect place for a date night: dinner and a movie.

It's a little more upscale than your average strip-mall restaurant without being fancy. It tends to be quiet in the early evening, but if you plan to arrive after 8 p.m., make reservations.

If you end up waiting, Bistro 555 has a nice bar area with a view of the open kitchen and wood-burning pizza oven, plus the restaurant has three flat-screen televisions.

The menu is a mix of Italian favorites, gourmet pizzas, seafood and grilled meats. Value-minded diners will appreciate that a salad (house or Caesar) is included with every entree and pasta.

It's an accommodating place. They'll do half portions of any dish for children, and were happy to oblige our group's requests to switch sauces and pastas on several dishes.

We tried and liked the pesto linguine with chicken (sun-dried tomatoes add a nice complement), shrimp diavalo (five good-sized shrimp and a sauce just spicy enough, if a little oily) and chicken breast stuffed with spinach, mozzarella and ham (all the heartier with our red-sauce substitution). Next time we'd skip the bland fried-calamari starter.

Bistro 555 is the kind of place where you can spend conservatively and have a nice dinner for well under $20 a person or splurge on more expensive specials. Either way, it's becoming a neighborhood favorite.

• Bistro 555, 15651 Sheridan St., Davie: pastas $10.95-$17.50, fish and seafood $14.50-$22.95, grilled meat $12.95-$24.75; full bar; 954-358-0808, bistro555.com.

FRANK AND PATTIES

The restaurant's slogan is ''Good Mood Food,'' and it definitely serves the type of comfort food that will make you feel good as long as you forget about the calories.

The décor is an updated take on the classic '50s diner. The bright yellow walls are hung with memorabilia like a Citizen Kane movie poster, vintage vinyl LPs and an old-fashioned Schwinn bicycle.

The menu focuses on the signature products: frankfurters and hamburger patties. There are at least 10 versions of each, from traditional chili dogs, barbecue burgers and patty melts to creative combinations like the Waffler, a hamburger patty between two waffles topped with butter sauce, bacon and maple syrup.

Looking for a healthier option? Try the chicken sandwiches and salads. Want to get the best of both? Top your salad with a frank or patty.

While Frank and Patties is pricier than your typical fast-food restaurant, the quality is a step above. The burgers use fresh ground chuck and are similar to what you would make on your backyard grill.

Sides must be ordered separately or by upgrading to a combo meal ($2.79 or $3.79), and they're well worth it. Thick-cut, beer-battered onion rings are crunchy, not greasy, and fries are made from freshly cut potatoes with the skin still attached.

You can save money and calories by skipping the Otto's Malt Shop offerings. The malted milk we tried had more ice than flavor.

• Frank and Patties, 3800 N. University Dr., Sunrise: Frankfurters $2.99-$5.99, hamburgers $4.79-$6.99, chicken sandwiches $5.49-$6.79 (add $2.79 or $3.79 for a combo); 954-749-2424.

MEZES

It's a long way from Pembroke Pines to the Mediterranean, but Mezes is trying to bring some of the ambience of a Greek taverna to a half-empty strip center.

The stamped concrete floor and terra cotta partitions between tables create a comfortable space for diners to linger over a selection of the namesake mezes (appetizers).

Mezes welcomes diners with garlicky hummus and warm pita triangles. We followed it with an order of spanakopita -- nicely seasoned spinach and feta wrapped in flaky phyllo dough.

Entrees include the Plaki, moist tilapia baked in white wine, topped with chopped fresh tomatoes and caramelized onions and served with plain white rice and (overcooked) green beans. The Youvesti brought tender lamb shank baked with cheese and orzo seasoned with cardamom and tomatoes.

If you want to take a taste of Greece home, Greek olive oil, pastries and more are for sale up front.

 

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